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WISSANT, FRANCE Tango Camp Notes

 

On the back road by airport

We arrived in Zaventem, Brussels Airpoqrt after the flight from Helsinki. With a rental car, we were able to navigate our way out of the airport and onto the highway.
The town of Wissant, France is about 3 hour drive from the airport.
The road we drove to Wissant was the Flemish French version of the superhighway. We only stopped once for coffee.  That road stop was similar to any road stop on a US highway complete with Macdonalds and Starbucks. The only difference was paying in Euros and not dollars.

As we got closer to Wissant, the scenery changed to gently rolling hills with an occasional farm, fields, olive trees, or a diary farm with cows grazing on the hillside. We arrived at our Hotel de La Plague, Wissant, just as the sky was starting to darken.

 

Roadside vista

We walked into the small office area, and we’re greeted by the front desk woman.  Who, of course, proceeded to tell is in every way possible that she only spoke French. We were trying to communicate in Spanish first, then English.
Fortunately for us, there was another person there and he helped us. She gave us the key to a room on the third floor walk up, and we returned and said that it was not possible because of all the luggage!!!

So she gave us the key to a different room. This room proved to be exactly like a French attic studio except with less space. In the room was a very small desk, a double bed tucked between two walls and the small seperate bathroom. The bathroom had a sink and an upstanding  bathtub with a shower attachment.  And the boiler had not been turned on for the season, it was so cold.

After getting ourselves settled, it was time to meet the group. This year’s crop of workshop dancers were mostly from Belgium and France. Mostly middle-aged  couples speaking Flemish, French, a bit of English and an occasional word of Spanish.


There were a few couples that we met at last years camp, but most of the couples were new to us.

Hotel de la Plage, Wissant

After a little meet and greet, we adjourned to dinner. It was a typical french country dinner, an appetizer, a main course and a dessert. As we are at the sea, most of the weeks, dinners are fresh fish of some sort, even serving escargot and oysters one night!

The dinning room was set up with one long community table, 5 tables for 4 and a rectangular table to 6.

In the next six days, we would have breakfast and dinner together, but we were separated into groups for classes.

In the first couple of days, the weather was wet and cold, raining buckets. I did not want to leave the hotel, as was gray and wet out. We were so happy we had asked and received a small portable heater that allowed us to keep our room at a comfortable 26 C.

View from our room at night

There were two morning techniques classes in which were separated by sex and taught separately. Both Liz and Yannick are very talented not only as dancers but also as instructors. They can break down any step into its elements… The basic steps formated and broken down into the simplest process that will achieve the results.
I attended each of the techniques classes to continue my learning process with my body.

In this class, woman technique class our bodies were as varied as the women themselves. Some can do disassociation, and some can not. Some can balance, and some can not. As this was a woman’s technique class, Liz helped each person to achieve what is the best possible outcome for their body.

Then there was a couple of practice classes daily. The couples was divided into two groups. Daily classes fluctuated between early one day and later the next.

The teacher table


Then everyday there was a practica, some days guided by Liz & and Yannick, other days without guidance but music was provided.

Then, daily before dinner there were a different group classe ranging from musicality with one class on D’Arienzo and one on Canaro. And a different group class on how to dance in a small space.

Every night after dinner there was a milonga to attend if you wished. Most of us did as was a great place to practice the new sequences we learned.

That’s what I love about this workshop. Learning and correcting habits in a safe space.

A teaching moment

Maximo and I are the only Spanish speaking foreigners to the group. For us, taking this workshop is all about returning to the basics, yet again. To practice new and old steps, concentrate on our connection and our balance and how we embrace each other. We do this to refresh ourselves and our dance; it’s our week to just practice tango!

Practica

We find out that we are by far the most traveled tango dancers as we have danced tango in many countries. There is a middle-aged couple that competes in both ballroom and tango.  They are both wonderful people as they were one of the few peeps we shared conversations with as they both spoke English.

We felt a deficit of conversation because we don’t speak Flemish or French.
The people here all know each other pretty well and again we are the newcomers.

It can be isolating to not speak a language, but we are outgoing and always curious about meeting other tangeros.  This is true here. We attempted to have conversations with a few other people in the workshop.

Listening in musicality class

This is strictly a couples only event as most couples don’t rotate partners in class. At a milonga, these folks like dancing mostly with the folks they know. On the final night, our grand Milonga, we were treated to a performance by Luz and Yannick. Was very beautiful and pretty impromptu as most of the week Liz been dealing with injury.

Performance by Liz & Yannick

At this gala milonga, there seemed to be a greater ease amongst the dancer, a willingness to open up, as a couple of women asked Maximo for a dance. The same was true for me. It was the last night of the workshop as we were all departing in the morning.

And of course, Nova was always appreciative of all

During the week of the workshop, the act of eating with a stranger is a way of learning about someone with food and conversation if both parties agree to sit with each other.

Unfortunately, the group of dancers that we were at this camp seemed to  believe in staying safe and sitting with people they knew. A few wondered over to our table, while most preferred the known versus the unknown.

Maximo dancing with another tangera

Yes, this is a reminder that not all people are curious or willing to try a new experience.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Wissant as not only the classes, but the location allowed us to explore the area. We visited Calais and  Boulogne sur Mer.
This area was the location of heavy fighting in WWII. Many monuments to the dead and museums, too.

The beach way

We drove the small coastal roads and  walked along the seas. We looked directly at the cliffs of Dover.  Many ferries,  barges and freighter ply these seas, and an occasional fishing boat.

The long goodbyes

We continue our travels and always stay curious and take on new experiences meeting new folks and trying out new food and cities. After all, we are adventurers in our own fashion.

Now on to Portugal!!!
Lisboa for a few days and Porto Tango Marathon.

Abrazo

Land of the North.

Main train station,Helsinki

After our time in Kraków, we headed north to Helsinki. We were going this far north now as at the end of September the weather starts to get colder. This year, all the world experienced a very warm summer season.
Upon arriving here, we noticed that the city was so quiet. It seems like you never hear an ambulance or a police siren. It’s a bit unnerving as these are the sounds of the city. The second thing we noticed was how clean the city was.
Helsinki is home to approx 400,000 people.

In the city, there is excellent public transportation provided by buses and trams, and on the water, there is a large network of ferries. You can go from Helsinki to Norway, Sweden, Denmark or Estonia, and many other destinations.
These waters have been used extensively for the transportation of people, goods, and services for hundreds of years. This tradition continues today.

Cafe life is alive as is a great food culture.
We found an old glass house cafe called Kappeli that was built in 1867. Lots of local history besides great coffee and cakes. A lot of restaurants in Helsinki are more like cafererias. Order at the counter, and food is delivered to your table.

Kappeli glass coffee house

We tried the local specialties of reindeer meat with liganberry jam on a baked potato twice. First at our friend Emilia’ home as she prepared it for us with reindeer meat that was from her mother’s herd in northern Lapland.

The second time was at the Old Market Hall in Helsinki. This is an old hall where you can try many local delicacies ranging from coffee to fresh soups to various types of local meats.

The difference between⁰ the two preparations was that there was a bit of difference in the flavor of the meat.
Reindeer is a bit gamey but sweeter than elk.
The other specialty we tried a few times was salmon chowder. Sometimes, the broth was creamer than others. Helisinki offers many food experiences.

Interior of old market hall

One night, we ate a new French restaurant that had been open only for two weeks.  It’s on the second floor called Bouchon Carema. Very lively with some of your food prepared and cooked tableside.

We also tried out a few sauna experiences.  In Finland, a sauna is almost daily, if not weekly, activity. It’s a social, it’s for business it’s for meeting new people. It’s in some respects the Finnish equivalent of meeting for a coffee.

Loyly sauna

We went to Loyly, which is a very modern seaside sauna with a stylish, glass-walled restaurant & large deck for sweeping views of the ocean. There are 2 saunas, each with a different type of heat. Wet and traditional smoke sauna.


There is an area to go outside after the sauna for cool down, and you can even swim in the Baltic Sea, or as I did, take a cold shower to cool down.
Sitting in the wet sauna, your vista thru a huge glass window was the bleak waters of the Baltic on a gray day.

After 2 hours of this, your body is refreshed, your skin has a healthy glow, and you are starving.

Allas sauna

The other place we tried was close by our apartment and called Allas Spas. If you are a pool swimmer, this is your place. Our pool is natural salt water, and the other is heated water. Here, the saunas are much smaller and more of an emphasis on the swimming part of the experience.
I think either one is definitely worth a visit as they are such a part of Finnish culture.

Interior, museum of contemporary art.

We spent a week getting to know the city, which is rather small.
We visited cafes, went to the contemporary art museum and even went to a classical music concert at the concert hall.


The city is quiet and somber as are the people, and they are not as outgoing as up north in Lapland, which we were able to visit on this trip.

Helsinki philharmonic hall

Going up north to the Arctic Circle was amazing. We took the overnight train from the Helsinki train station. We booked a sleeper car and ordered our breakfast in advance.  It’s a bit different sleeping on a train, but the best news is when you wake up, you are at your destination.
Rovaniemi. This small city is also known as Santa Claus village.

We never went to the village. Instead, our two days were filled with different experiences.  We booked our stay at the first guesthouse built in the city. This place is close to the train station and offers a hearty breakfast buffet every morning. The place is run by two sisters.
The weather here was substantially colder than Helsinki even with my borrowed sweater, I felt the chill, but we were now equipped with wool socks and fingerless wool gloves

We walked and found a great cafe for a coffee and a bit of food. Cafe 21. Unfortunately it started to rain so we decided to go to the market to buy some soups for dinner. As later that night, our first tour to see the Aurora Borealis would start at 10 pm. We shopped and scheduled a Bolt back to our guesthouse as it was now raining heavily. Hope was fading to see the lights as the sky was very cloudy.

Our guide Paiva

Later that evening, we were at the offices of Lapland Safaris, getting fitted out in additional warm clothes and boots with our veteran guide named Paivi. She was wonderful, informative, and funny. As she too felt hopeful, we would see the lights. Our group size was a total of 4 people. She drove us to a restaurant farm area that was about 45 minutes outside of town to get into total darkness. We were at this farmers’ restaurant by a lake that had a hut that was partially enclosed, allowing us a bit of protection from the winds and torrential rains.  The farmer was there too, offering us warm beverages and delicious homemade cookies against a background of a giant roaring fire.

We waited while there was a downpour. We told Ghost stories. We heard tales of Finnish folklore. We drank hot mulled wine and ate homemade cookies.
The time passed.
The cloudy sky opened up for the stars. The light show began. We stared, we fotoed the sky. All told we saw the Aurora for 10 minutes. But we were lucky and saw the lights.

A planet shined brightly. I think it was Venus, and then the sliver of the moon burst thru the clouds.
Then, just as quickly as the skies opened, the stars disappeared, and the clouds returned.
All the lights were gone.
We got dropped off at 1am and promptly fell asleep.

That next day, we took a taxi out to a sauna called Arcos Lapland.  It’s about a 20-minute ride outside the city. I had booked this private experience for us to enjoy.


Imagine an outdoor woodfire hot tub on the edge of a lake with a small building that contains a woodfired sauna. It was all ours for 2.5 hours.
They provided coffee, cookies, a sausage to roast over the fire complete with buns and all the extras, and of course, the campfire necessities; the marshmallow.

We stayed in the tub while it rained, then quickly went ran inside to the sauna to get heated up. This was a simple life for two and a half hours. We played music, we chatted, we ate a bit and relaxed, and got cozy.
It’s remarkable how slowly time does move when you are still in the countryside.

Then our time was done, and our taxi arrived. We returned to guesthouse to nap a bit as our next safari was on a small boat on the cities main river again to see the lights.

It continued to rain all day, sometimes in buckets and other times in a mist. We were hopeful for another sighting, but as the clouds and rain persisted, I was doubtful.

After a tasteful and impressive dinner at the Arctic Board Restaurant, we were picked up by our next guide, Mieke.
We returned to the Lapland Safaris office yo get fitted out for more warm clothing as the temperature was dropping. Again, it was just us and another woman from Japan. We walked out the back door of the Lapland Safaris offices to a small covered boat.

Our group for the boat tour

For two hours, we sat on this boat and looked for any sign of an auroras. the river at night is very calm. It was lightly raining. Our guide gave us some hot juice to drink that did its job warming us up.

Our boat guide Mieke

But this was only a temporary warmth because the temperatures were plummeting down to the low 30s.
Wet and cold after two hours we returned to the office.

Cold water and wind

Once inside, returning our clothes again, the heated room was the perfect place to get warm. Our guide and driver dropped us off at the guesthouse.
We fell asleep only to wake up at 7.30 in the morning as we were ticketed on the day train back to Helsinki.

Once back in Helsinki, clothes were washed, and luggage got repacked.
We slept in on Saturday as we were exhausted from our quick back to back adventures.


Rising early on Sunday, our bolt driver showed up on time at 6 am and off to the airport we went.
Continuing our adventures, but now on to Brussells and a week at Tango camp in Wissant, France with Liz and Yannick Van Hove.

More to follow!!! Abrazo

Traveling Tango

Contributor of Tango Experiences

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