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Moving south

Me and my scooter at the park in İzmir, next to the Egyptian Obelisk

We have spent 2 lovely weeks in Izmir, a large metropolitan city located on the Agean Coast of Turkey, the Asian side. Sitting on the mouth of a huge bay, Izmir is the 3rd largest city in Turkey with an active harbor and lots of ferries criss crossing the city.

The hotel residence we stayed in was located in Alcansak. A very lively neighborhood of the city, a bit north of Konak. The hotel residence was simple, with a large double bed, bathroom and a little kitchen area where were able to prepare our daily breakfasts.

The waterfront at night filled with families

We were surrounded by amazing restaurants and bars. Fast food, slow food, Turkish food, and some international foods.

A salad from a nearby restaurant

We were close to a nearby house of transvestite prostitues. It’s a little different setting. Nightly when out walking, there they were chatting up customers and others locals. Was pretty wonderful to observe as no one seemed to care what their sex was or wasn’t. I would imagine that their attention was welcomed by some community members.

Always trying to locate milongas in the city we visit, we use Facebook, Instagram, and word of mouth contacts. In Izmir, we found a few milongas. As is typical when traveling, some are very open and welcoming. Other milongas are not open and can be less welcoming to strangers.

But what we loved about all this dancing was all the enthusiasm. Almost always very exuberant. It’s very dizzying to watch.

In Turkish Tango, there are many giros. In fact, it is the most used step in an open embrace. It’s more like gymnastics and not much walking.

Open embrace

In many milongas we attended in Turkey, the dancers prefer an open embrace for dancing tango.

I am not sure if this style of embrace is because of a possible cultural taboo or a learned experience.

But it is definitely very different from Argentina Tango.

The music played is Juan Darienzo, Hector Varela, Anibal Troillo, and other orchestras that have a fast driving beat.

Not much music by De Sarli or Pugliese, Fluevio Salamanca is played as this music is more playful, soft, and very romantic.

We are definitely Argentina Tango dancers as we love to caminando, and we dance. We listen to the music, and we take turns playing with spaces between the music. But most importantly, we are corazón to corazón in a close embrace. And enjoying every minute of it.

Next stop, Kaş on the Mediterran Sea.

Abrazo y Besos

The Joy of Traveling

Istanbul, the city of many mysteries and relics from the past, offers its visitors an amazing experience.

As we like to be local when we travel, we ride the buses, take the trains, trams and ferries all over this vast city of 15 million

It is such a huge city that it can take up to two hours to cross from an outlying sections to the edge of the city by the Bosphorus Sea and not even cross to the Asian side of the city, which can stretch for another two hours.

There is so much traffic that to go any distance by bus is a minimum of an hour, and depending on traffic can take up to two hours to go 8 km.

But the views and the people are wonderful.

Bodies are packed very close together, but the men are mostly respectful of the women and children.

Sometime you enter the bus in front and pay with your pass. Other times on crowed buses, you are entering from the rear doors.

To pay for your journey, you hand your bus pass to the next person, and they send it forward to the driver to pay your fare.

Minutes later, your pass comes back in the same manner.

Passing forward or back. But to me, the amazing part is that it gets returned.

Ride the tram on Sultanamet, and you pass the ancient Roman sistern, the Hagia Sofia, the Blue mosque, and parts of the ancient aqueduct system that brought water into Istanbul in the times of the Roman Empire.

Add to this visual mixture, the restaurants and the variety of foods and goods to buy and enjoy, and before you are even aware, a week has gone by. You might even be a bit exhausted.

Then there’s the Tango world here.

Remember Türkiye is a country of Muslims but not a Muslim country.

There are two types of tango danced here, Argentinetango and Turkishtango.

Closed and open embrace.

Using Hoy Milonga and Facebook, it is possible to find all the milongas here.

But be aware that some are in old buildings with no elevators and a 4th or even 5th floor walk ups.

While others are in restaurants and bars, almost none are on street level.

The problem for me is the number of people here who are smokers. There seems to be many more tango dancers that smoke here in İstanbul than in Buenos Aires.

Smoking is not allowed inside but only outside on the terraces and decks.

As to admission prices range from
80 T ₺ to a high of 125 ₺ [similar to prices in BsAs about 800 peso to 1500 pesos.

At my favorite milonga at the Armada Hotel, for example. This milonga has been going on for 24 years. There are tables surrounding the floor, while at Tangoist, Tango Nar [ all in Tasksim], there are chairs against the wall.

Sometimes, the host seats you at a table, and other times, it is free for all. Turks do not believe in saving seats, even if all your stuff is left there, someone else will sit there.

The most wonderful part of this…
Yes, there is Argentinetango all over the world to find.

So far this year, we have danced in Spain and in Turkey. In September, we are off to Petra, Jordan for a marathon.

Traveling just takes time, money and patience.

Making new friends and discovering a new place for a milonga in any given country is why we travel.

To be able to dance, to travel and enjoy all that is there, is truly a gift.

With gratitude to you my reader, who encourages me to write and foto.

Abrazo

Traveling Tango

Contributor of Tango Experiences

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