We are now in Cordoba.
We are wanderers.
With every tour, each one has a unique rhythm that changes yearly based on the cities or countries we tour.
Traveling Andalucía, we see similarities as this land was initially Roman, then it was occupied by the Moors and finally dominated by the Catholic church and its king.
Many Roman cities
Most of these Spanish cities have remnants of Roman ruins as this area of Andalucía developed as a Phoenician city approximately 2000 years ago. Then, it became part of the Roman Empire in 200 BC and was under the control of the Visigoths [German] starting in about 500 AD. In 711 AD, it became part of the Caliphate until the overthrow of the Moors by the Christian King Fernando, approximately 1300 AD, and it remained so until the creation of Spain in 1492. AD
Andalucía is a beautiful and welcoming area that geographically includes the southern Spanish cities of Malaga, Grenada, Cadiz, Seville, and Cordova.
The area is host to some of the country’s hottest temperatures, easily reaching temperatures of 95 plus degrees in the summer months.
This area is also the agricultural basket of Spain, where a lot of Spain’s food crops are grown.
The other industry that this area has is tourism.
Tourism is growing
Tourism is growing because of the area’s historical culture, and the Andalucían tourist board has successfully been marketing this type of tourism.
During the day, we saw the Roman bridge over the river Guadalquivir that runs not only through Cordoba but further downstream through Seville, too.
Then we visited the impressive Mosque/Cathedral, a spectacular experience as this structure was built as a mosque in the 6th century. Still, in the 12th century, a grand cathedral was built in the center as the building was so beautiful that the king did not want to destroy it but instead added to it.
It is truly a remarkable site; in 1984 it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sunday services are still hosted on this site, as the day we visited, the custodians set up hundreds of chairs on the floor of the Mosque/Cathedral. The exact number of worshipers attending these services is only known to the church, but it is a large assembly.
The afternoon siesta
After our visit here, we were exhausted and honored the Spanish custom of afternoon siesta. This is an excellent custom as you can not only avoid the intensity of the day’s heat but also avoid exhaustion.
Earlier in the day, we bought tickets for that evening’s Equestrian Show. After our siesta, we had enough time to have a couple of tapas and a Tinto de Verano before going to the show. [Spain’s special summer beverage of red wine mixed with lemon soda served with ice and a fresh slice of lemon.]
Nowadays, with the heat of the day and the high temperatures, the show starts at 21 hours; the show runs 90 minutes of horses cantering, galloping, walking sides, and up on their 2 legs. It was an eye-opening experience as we had never been to an equestrian event before.
This event occurred in the stables built by King Phillip II in 1570, as was his intention to breed thoroughbred Andalucían horses. Looking at the beauty and intelligence of these animals allows us to appreciate that success.
Amazing time spent
Finishing up at 22.30, we walk back to our apartment; the evening climate is perfect, with a slight breeze after the day’s heat. The cobblestone streets are quiet except for our footsteps and the occasional loud voices behind the closed shutters.
We walk, enjoying the old city of Cordoba, reminiscing about our travels here and to the other cities.
We are struck by the similarities between the cities in the autonomous region of Andalucía, as exhibited in their culture and cuisine.
The decaying Roman ruins, the glorious nature of the preserved churches, the numerous river bridges, the ornamental tile roofs, and the numerous parks are all preserved for our modern-day usage.
The Bullfight
One evening, we attended the local bullfight. It was an event that drew mixed emotions from me, but as it is ingrained in the culture of Cordoba, and somehow the killing of the bull is horrible and anticlimactic, as the matador does an impressive job tiring out this huge 500-kilo bull. With his cape waving side to side, he makes the bull turn as his cape turns. There is a hearty respect from the matador for the bull. The audience comments with Ole, and with their white handkerchief, acknowledging the prowess of the matador.
This spectacular takes approximately 20 minutes from start to finish. That night, we witnessed three renowned matadors put on a mesmerizing show for their fans. It was truly hypnotic. The show ended around 20, then all of the crowds leisurely departed the stadium.
Unfortunately, since we have arrived in Córdoba for Feria de Córdoba week, there are no milongas this week, as many regular events are suspended. So, another week of not dancing tango.
We have been fortunate enough to visit these two cities in Andalucía, Seville and Córdoba, just in time to experience their Ferias.[Fairs]
These Ferias are modern-day celebrations that have evolved from the livestock fairs of the past, now serving as social and cultural spectacles featuring music, dance, food, and a festive atmosphere.
Difference in the cities
The difference between the ferias is significant; the Seville version is primarily held in private casetas, whereas the Cordoba one is mainly held in public casetas. A casita is a Spanish term for a space where you can drink, dance, or sit and chat with friends and family.
Both fairs were terrific and very different in spirit, as the temperatures in Seville were starting to heat up, possibly in the high 70s, while in Cordoba, the temperatures were in the 90s. We went to both in the late afternoon for people-watching and maybe to get in some dancing. I am glad we visit these events and enjoy the local cultures.
As both Seville and Córdoba are located inland, I suggest visiting either city before the heat of summer sets in, as temperatures are much warmer in July and August, regularly reaching or exceeding 95 degrees.
In our travels through Spain, we have been fortunate to spend approximately a week in each city in Andalucía.
We have discovered our favorite cities, but now we are embarking on a trip to Barcelona. We are familiar with the milongas there, and then on to the Tango de Amigos festival in Santa Susana.
That will be another travel story.
Abbraccio
Links to stories:
https://travelingtango.com/2023/07/28/baby-its-hot-2/
https://travelingtango.com/2025/03/18/its-always-the-music/
https://www.spain.info/en/destination/cordoba/
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/the-mosque-cathedral-of-cordoba-spain
Xtra photos:
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