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Late August

Its late August. Where did the time go? A moment ago it was June.

As we prepare to travel to the the USA for a month or so, my thoughts focus on the experiences of living and dancing in Istanbul.

Primarily, this city is a dichotomy of new and old creating a force field of energy that is unique to this city alone.

Stark clean modern underground trains [the Metro] take you from one area to the next in minutes, but only until midnight during the week and 24 hours on Friday and Saturday.

Car and taxi traffic is incredible toxic during early morning rush hour and again in the evening. Never take surface transportation during these hours if you can get to your destination via a train or tram or ferry.

This city has buses, ferrys trains, trams and a funicular, rentable scooters and motorcycles. But my favorite is always walking except uphill, and there are many hills in İstanbul as Istanbul is historically known as the City of Seven Hills

Living in Buenos Aires, I walk alot but here in İstanbul am walking almost double the distances as everything here is very large and far flung.

Residing in the part of the city called Şişli, close to Osmanbey train station, we are able to go to the milongas in Taskim or Beyoğlu by train in 10 or 15 minutes as as we are one or two stops away.

Most milongas are not on ground level, unless you are at the Armada Hotel [changing to Monday] or Zeytuna on Thursday. In my opinion, it’s one if the best in the city.

Many milongas are difficult to find on first attempts. You must listen for the tango music or see another milongeros entering the space. Sometimes asking the nearby restaurants owner works too. What a relief to arrive at the correct place, especially after climbing the stairs as most Istanbul buildings are fairly old and do not include elevators.

Often the spaces are very small, some with beautiful old floors and antique trim on the ceilings. While others are checkerboard black and white tile or plain linoleum. A few are in basement and others are in shopping malls. A great variety of spaces as the dancing in İstanbul is as varied as the places.

There is style I would name Turkish Tango. Its very different from Argentine Tango. It is usually excercized by younger dancers in open embrace, with no musicality or connection and involves lifting the legs high on crowed floors and lots of giros [turns] too. Especially on crowed floors. Injuries do happen. Seems more like gymnastics than tango to me.

Fortunately, we have found spaces to dance the tango we love and practice, Argentinetango.
Having a few helpful tango friends, we discovered a few other practitioners of Argentinetangoas we know it. Close embrace, and listening to the music. This discovery made our dancing so much more enjoyable at many milongas.

Shortly we will dance in a few cities in the USA, one east coast, Miami and two west coast cities, San Francisco and Seattle.

Look forward to this. Visiting some friends not in contact with for over two years…should be exciting.

Another amazing weekend of tango.

With the conclusion of Cappadocia Tango Maraton on Sunday, we moved onto a different locale. 


From the heights of Cappadocia [1000 m] to the sea level of Marmaris, a small city on the Mediterran coast of Turkyie, we continue with this adventure.

I do want to share some insights about Cappadocia Tango Maraton. First off it was a wonderful experience. The people we met were very warm welcoming and curious. From all over Turkey, Lebanon, Russia, Ukraine, Italy and Israel speaking many languages and all a bit of English.

Dancing was all closed embrace and the musicality was good. The crowd of 250 or so tangueras ranged in age from 25 to 75 or so.

Hair colors of all shades and many bald heads were seen. Many of the bald men were wearing a bandana of their heads to catch, the perspiration. Thank you. Some with huge heads of hair, tamed them a wrap tie. Many men wore ponytails at various heights on their heads.

And the woman were dressed from very casual with shorts and a very small top to total tango clothes…most looked very beautiful.

The djs for the Festival were very good, some of the tandas were one orchestra while one dj varied orchestras in the tanda. Each tanda and dj created some exquisite connections with partners and the floors.

One thing that was very different then other festival or maraton was the number of children running around. Many dancers brought their mothers as baby sitters while others took care of child by themselves.

Am looking forward to returning next year as the hot air balloon at dawn was canceled for 3 days because of winds and dust.

Little did we realize that our upcoming flight would also be canceled. This was truly a difficult time as we received the cancelation almost at the airport. Turkish Airline rebooked us on another flight from a different airport an hour away. And at that airport total chaos ensued.

This change event led us to miss our connection from Istanbul to Mugal-Marmaris airport.
We ended up staying for a few hours at the Turkish Airlines domestic lounge, where we found almost comfortable chairs, and a good assortment of food. The best thing about the Turkish Airline club is that there are busses deliver you directly to the gate.

So after a few hassles we arrived in Marmarais for a few days of beach and sun before departing for a week in Rhodes Greece.

So life is good!!!

Istanbul stories

Galata Tower

We’ve been here two months and continue our discovery of all the milongas in the city while exploring the food and nightlife that exist here.

We love Tango. We live Tango. We love Tango. We live Tango.

But sometimes a change is really good for the hips and heart. [Think tango and then blues fusion]

On Saturday night in the heart of Taskim, we found a blues club Kumsaati Blues Club. The club holds about 50 people and to gain entrance requires walking down the stairs to the cellar from the street. Think Greenwich Village vibe in the 1970s. The beer is on tap, the music is loud and good and smoking is only permitted outside. Was a fun experience sitting in club in Istanbul listening to 3 guys wail out blues riffs on their guitars.

Interior of Kumsaati Blues Club

Later that night we walked to the main street at 1.30 in the morning, but we were not tired. So we went in search of more music.

Street with view of Galata Tower

We found a great club for nightime Jazz. Coq Coq Pera is a Thai restaurant down the street from the Pera Palace that serves traditional thai food in a beautiful environment
complete with an outdoor
garden deck.

Taskim at night

On the night we visited, there was a jazz trio, stand up bass, saxophone and guitar with a soulful singer. The space is a mixture of intimate bar space with a few couches and chairs. We tried to dance tango on the floor but we needed different shoes or powder, but still had a blast playing around with the jazz and 60’s sounds

The following day, after celebrating two Cancer friend’s birthdays we decided on Sunday night to go dancing again, we looked for a place to do some more salsa dancing…in a turkish city to find Latin dancing was not that difficult.

Interior of Grand Pera

We found it at the Grand Pera AVM, a mall with a large open space on the top floor that offered Salsa lessons in one area and Batcha classes in the other room with Latin rhythms playing continually.

We found it at the Grand Pera AVM, a mall with a large open space on the top floor that offered Salsa lessons in one area and Batcha classes in the other room with Latin rhythms playing continually.

We danced a mixture of tango, batchata, cha-cha, rumba, salsa for what seemed like hours. We left exhausted but happy at 2.15 am, they go until 3 am.

On weekends the trains and some buses run 24 hours a day making it an easier and less expensive process to discover other music in the city.

Abrazo y Besos, Ruth

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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