Time really does fly by as it did while living in Florida.
Last Friday we went dancing at La Pituca and the music was fantastic as she played D’sarle, Pugliese and Tanturi Fabiola usually plays a lot of Cajenge… which for my taste is a bit squeaky.
As per usual, this milonga la Pituca draws a good crowd from the area. The dancers are mostly dancing in the style of close embrace with a bit of ballroom tango [gringo tango] thrown in too.
Maximo, me and Fabiola
The space is probably in size, which is a bit smaller than El Beso with the dance floor being rectangular in shape, and seating is only available on the left side. This is the entrada side of the room.
We have been going to this milonga whenever we are staying in Delray Beach. It’s only a 30-minute drive away.
This time in US has been busy as my 35-year-old son, who lives north of Seattle, visited us for 4 days. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t the most cooperative for warmth as it was only in the low 70s, but at least it was almost double the temperature in Bellingham.
In my back yard
Was great to catch up on each other’s lives as we seem to see each other sometimes once or this year we got in 2 times. It’s really great to get to spend quality time with family. We just hung out at the house, mostly cooking, chatting, taking walks, and going to the gym.
It’s now Sunday, December 8th. Tonight, we fly to Venice and arrive late Monday afternoon.
Packing up the apartment and finishing packing for the next 4 months in Buenos Aires means figuring out what to leave and what comes with.
Dancing at la Pituca
But as we go to Venice first, where the temperature is 48 degrees and possible rain is forecast. So, I have packed a few sweaters and my warm jacket with wool gloves from Finland and my funky pink headband from Krakow. So will stay warm.
We will spend 4 days before attending La Reunión Tango Festival at San Servelo Hotel on Isola di San Servolo. I’m excited, and I know it’s a bit crazy too. This is the same organizer whose festival we attended in the middle of July in Rome. There are 150 people all together for the joy of dancing tango.
Then, after the festival is over, we will fly to BsAs. Now that’s a long flight with a flight change in Madrid.
Manny y Fabby, organizers of La Pituca
While it will be intriguing to return to BsAs with a new government and new tourist conditions, to us, it is always about dancing at the milongas and having a coffee with friends at a cafe.
We have been here for a month. It took me some time to remember Florida ways.
Such as the need to drive everywhere as we are living in Delray Beach, which really isn’t a walkable city unless you are living downtown
Remember, nothing here has a real street presence because every store is in a mall, strip mall, mini mall, or large mall.
A habit we have developed is to go to a cafe for an afternoon coffee; in Florida, the choices are very limited to Starbucks [ too bitter for me] or getting in your car and driving 20 minutes to downtown Delray, where there are a couple of places to get a coffee. 1 cappuccini and 1 cortado $ 9.00 US
Ouch, in Europe 2, coffees like this range, depending on the country, from 4€ to maybe 6€. Last year, after suffering through this, we dropped the big dollars and bought a Nespresso coffee machine and an electric milk frother.
Now we love our coffee break in the middle of the day, usually sitting on our terrace enjoying the mid-day sun!
In Florida, most milongas are charging about $ 20 entrada. For this price, some places include a bit of sweet or savory snacks, and I suggest bringing your wine. Most of the spaces here have good floors, strong air conditioning, and good music systems. Sometimes included are the matching computerized moving lights and mirrored balls with an outrageous light fixture.
Tres Esquinas, Italian Club Miami
Traditionally Florida milongas start at 9 PM and are finished by 1 am. Reservations are suggested, and sometimes prepayment options for admission are available.
After attending a few milongas, some faces become familiar, and others always remain strangers. As in most milongas in the world now, I observe women outnumber men about 2 to 1. If you have recently visited Bueno Aires, the ratio might be closer to 3 women to 1 man. This is the prime reason women are hiring tango taxi dancers in Florida, and this practice has been common in Buenos Aires for years. Haven’t seen much evidence of this practice in Barcelona or Istanbul.
In Miami, there is a large population of Argentinean migrants, so most peeps here are dancing traditional milongero close embrace, although you might find an occasional student from American Style Tango open embrace who just completed Fred Astaire dancing classes.
Tanda social club, North Miami
To know what’s happening and where to dance in Florida, there is tangomango.org presenting classes, practicas & milongas scheduling, and recently, Hoy-Milonga.com started its coverage of the tango in southern Florida. This site is based in BsAs with coverage of the world of tango including BsAs, Berlin, Athens Turkey, and England.
Since arriving, the weather has been mostly windy and warm. We have been lucky and only experienced small bouts of rainstorms. There are nothing like the recent devastating events in Valencia Spain, but hurricane season doesn’t officially finish until the end of November. Here’s hoping we don’t have that experience.
The place we live in is a sprawling Florida-style gated community of residents all over 55 years. This was not my choice, but I inherited the condo when my father passed 7 years ago.
It’s very safe and peaceful, kind of like living in the middle of a giant park with many types of palm trees and lots of different bird species, including egrets, big and small herons, hawks, and owls. For wildlife, some iguanas range in size from 2 inches to this big guy we see daily, sunning himself about 2 feet long, and of course, the squirrels.
During COVID-19, dogs were allowed and continued to be a part of the community, so daily dog walkers and there are many active walkers as the asphalt paths wander through the community that houses approximately 45 varied building types and 3000 people.
There are pools and a newly renovated and refurbished clubhouse with indoor pools, gyms, saunas, cardrooms, billiard rooms, an impressive current state-of-the-art theater, and a ballroom. Some clubs organize activities for interests, ranging from service to education and recreation. There’s also a large ballroom with a dance floor.
See the local egrets on way to the mailboxes.
My apartment is a two bedroom but on the ground floor and a corner. My dad fell in love with the lake view that originally was a golf course but now is a development of new one-story houses.
Most of the year, the area is not fully occupied as, yes, Florida is home to many snowbirds from the north who flock to Florida to evade the cold weather.
This is my favorite time to visit October until early December or in May. The weather is not too hot, but Florida is always humid!
It’s a bit tough on the hair, though!
Driving in Winn District, Miami
After not living in the US for long periods, it takes me a while to adjust to the terrible driving habits of Americans. They always forget to use signals, run through amber and even red lights, and just drive in the left lane instead of exiting after passing. My personal favorite is not respecting the flow of traffic in a merge and taking your turn.
Driving in France and Spain this year, we noticed and enjoyed the civility of traffic, especially in the roundabouts and on the highways.
This country that is the United States of America, has always been a land of immigrants where people have come to improve their lives for themselves and their children to escape oppression, political or economic. Other folks born here don’t realize or take for granted or simply don’t care about the freedoms that Americans currently enjoy.
Norton Museum, West Palm Beach
All these worldly habits are fully on display in Florida, and on some days, it is truly an amazing melting pot of people. On other days, I can only scratch my head and say to myself, WTF?
I am grateful I grew up in the times I did. As a woman in my 70s, I am looking forward to spending the next few years traveling the world and dancing tango while living in Barcelona, Buenos Aires, and spending very little time in the US.
The world is an amazing place, but we must remember to be grateful for all in our lives, to be kind to others, and to listen to each other.
To come to the milonga with an open heart, open mind, and a beautiful embrace to enjoy the dance and the life.
With Porto Tango Marathon finished, we packed our bags for the return to Lisboa by train.
Getting up early and indulging in a coffee and a nata, a Portugués pastry that tastes like a creme brule but with a flaky crust that is delicious but not sweet.
Porto Tango Marathon
The ordered Bolt showed up and took us the 10-minute ride over the hill. Yes, Porto is very hilly to the main train station. This old train station is very close to the Atlantic Ocean and the main docking area of the big cruise boats. That location leads to a packed station with many people who are also waiting for the scheduled fast train to Lisboa. There are two types of train services: the local and the fast express.
The train arrives, and we find our seats. But when you travel with 4 bags, finding space for the bags can be a challenge, but we find space and sit down. For the next 90 minutes, the train goes approx 80 kpm, not as fast as the train to Porto went for some reason.
Train station Coimbra
We are stopping for the night in Coimbra to the town that was once the capital of Portugal and is home to a very well-preserved medieval city along the Mondego River.
We are only staying here for the night as the next morning we’ll reboard the fast train and return to Lisboa.
Tiles on wall Coimbra
After finding our hotel via Bolt and stashing our bags, we started walking a bit into the old city. It’s another small, beautiful old medieval city that has had the newer sections built around the older city. Many of these medieval towns are very similar in their construction as they were built at approximately the same time. This one was started in the 12th century, so it was a little different, and the streets are denser, and there are 7 churches and various monasterys and government buildings.
We walk and find a place for a coffee at the Cafe Santa Cruz next to church of the same name in the heart of the city. This cafe is one of the most beautiful that we have visited, but the space still feels like a chapel. Later that evening, we returned to listen to the featured Fado music.
Old cafe in Porto
Walking further, this medieval town is from the 12th century. The streets are very narrow, normal sized street cars, and busses are not allowed into the city. But we do manage to find our preferred method of exploring a city – an electric tuk tuk. This is a great way to explore a city with a small footprint, especially if your guide is versed in history.
With our driver Wesley, he takes us on an exploration of Coimbra. The main old churches, the old university, and to a spectacular vista overlooking the city where a rope swing was installed where we take a photo. The tour was only 90 minutes long as the city itself was not very large. It’s a bit overcast and gray, but the viewpoint is marvelous.
Wesley? Tuk tuk driver
As now we are hungry, we find a place for soup as while the weather is warm, the wind has the chill of autumn in it. The soup is another version of vegetable and potatoe soup that’s delicious with a glass of tawny port.
We realized we need to get to bed early that night as we are finishing our train journey tomorrow, but it is still early in the evening.
We returned to the church cafe to listen to the Fado music. The cafe has fantastic acoustics, and the music is very haunting. There was a guitarist and another instrument shaped like a guitar but with a round body and double steel strings called a Portuguesa guitarra. And the singer, this time a man. The music is very melodic, and it could be considered sad or very stirring with stories of love and loss and sea adventures in Portuguese.
Fado singers at Church Cafe
Fado means literally “destiny” or “fate”, and therein lays its sad beauty. We must accept our fate, even if it’s cruel, especially if it’s cruel. Quoted from a story posted on the internet at liveluso.com
With the drama of the performance finished, we got another Bolt and arrived at our hotel in 5 minutes.
After a hotel breakfast, it’s time for the return trek to the train station. We again boarded the train, made our luggage fit unto the overcrowded rack space, and proceeded to our seats.
Swing overlooking Coimbra, Portugal
The journey was about 3 hours, but this train was not as comfortable as the first train as the seats didn’t recline and didn’t seem to have any cushioning either.
Our experience in Portugal and Spain trains have decent wifi, which is great as somehow I managed to pack my book in my big bag. There’s even a quiet car available on some trains if you are willing to pay for silence!
We arrived in Lisboa and took a street taxi to our airport hotel. Lisboa is a small city and the airport is almost in the city.
We have learned over the years that the way to travel for us that is kinder to our bodies is a train and an overnight hotel. A plane and an overnight hotel. This process allows us to recoup our energy.
View from Barcelona Airport
And then we are back in Barcelona for the evening as we fly back to Miami the next day.
Our adventures will continue, but we will be based in Delray Beach until we leave for Venice Tango Encuentro in early December.
We will dance in our Florida community and renew friendships with the tangeros that we have met over the years.