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Travel today

In the lap of luxury, so the journey begins…

Remember

Remember the innovative days of Pan Am Airways approximately in 1920 until its demise in 1966. In those early days passengers would dress up for the flying experience that was a sparkling aluminum plane with windows and acess was possibly by a set of walk-up stairs.

The experience was enhanced with gourmet food served on porcelain plates, accompanied by cloth napkins, and cocktails were presented in crystal glasses. The interior of the plane offered spacious seating on couches or lounge chairs and offered a higher ratio of service personnel to clients.  The prices were relatively expensive, and it was pretty uncommon for many people to fly.

There was an occasion which remains in my memory of a trip I took with my father.  As the oldest daughter of 3, I was usually treated as the adult child, as my immigrant parents were not totally versed in English yet.

I was probably around 8 or 9 years old, and my dad and I flew on a Pan Am Boeing Clipper from Newark Airport to Detroit. We dressed up in our best clothes and sat on a couch that ran parallel to the window. I think the occasion was my father’s brother’s birth of a child but those details are a bit fuzzy.

Old ways

What I do remember is the excitement of being on a plane. We had walked directly through the entire airport to the gate and climbed the movable steps, with the stewardess helping us find our assigned seats. I wore a big, crinkly brown and black plaid skirt that my mother had sewn for me and a freshly ironed blouse. My dad wore a jacket, slacks, and a tie. We were scrubbed clean and dressed to the nines! I think we were served food but who could eat as you watched the scenery pass by below from the vista of 10,000 ft. I was fascinated by the scene.

The journey lasted maybe 2 hours but I think our world changed, perhaps it was by the air or the nature of the ride, because we definitely felt special as we were doing something that most people only dreamed of.

I don’t remember how my dad paid for this experience, as we were, in reality, very poor, but I remember how special we felt.



Today’s experience is so very different.  Air travel is a necessity if one wants to go long distances. Miami to Barcelona.  The only other alternative is a cruise taking a week or so and as most Americans only get 2 to 4 weeks off as vacation and most folks prefer to get to their selected vacation spot speedily.

Airports today are scenes of total chaos, people arriving and departing for destinations for business for vacations and also many retired folks traveling to explore the world. Lots of students and folks under 25.  Parents with newborn babies and parents who probably should have used a condom.



The scene today is one of people rushing around the airport, to catch a flight, poorly dressed people in sports gear and running shoes, lots of logos and no matter the age and or sex, lots of noise and commotion. The days are perfect examples of hurrying up and waiting.

Hurry up and …

Travelers come in a couple of different types, the ones that get to the airport 3 or 4 hours before their flights and those who just squeak by with minimum effort and time.  Which one are you?

At Miami airport today there were two canine companions, one was a St Bernard and the other was the largest golden setter I’ve ever seen. Both had harnesses that had written on them saying that they were working and do not pet. It was such a big surprise, all I could do was smile as their handlers were small people in stature. The St Bernard being almost as tall as the handler.

There were no cats in cages on this flight as this is very popular. Not sure why either, except that the population is very mobile. The sound of a cat’s displeasure has become de riguer like the whisper of the plane.

Thinking back to the Pan American Airways flights, it all seems so nostalgic, except of course the current altitude is higher and the speeds are faster but it still takes a day to get anywhere.

Pan Am Air

For personal reasons back in September we had to change all our travel plans and OMG most airlines are very helpful as are the hotels. Only lost money on a deposit on a hotel in Puerta Vallarta [ if anyone wants to use it in exchange for a bit of cash, let me know] and only one airline insisted on a travel credit. Most of the others, my money was refunded.

So I booked us from Barcelona to Miami, premium economy.  Services were good, as I ordered a special.meal and received it one way and not the other. Those wider seats are definitely worth the money on flights over 9 hours, but for me, these days flying is so much harder on my body. In the future anything more than 9 hours has to be broken down into a couple of flights. After all, I am retired and don’t need to get anywhere quickly.



At the age of 73, I am trying to learn to slow down, but am finding this a bit difficult. Learning to do nothing is a definite artform. Meditation helps as does walking and doing a bit of chair yoga for my health. The best teacher for sitting still is my partner, Maximo.  He’s lived such an experience-filled life, but he can sit for hours and watch movie on his telephone learning English.

Yes, flying is necessary.
But then so is love, tango and traveling.

We look to the future while building on the past adventures except now we will buy a van and start doing road trips when the temperatures climb to the 90s in Barcelona.

Ahh the road map that will be is our guide are the Tango festivals and milongas and general historical interest.

Places to go

I would like to visit Montenegro, Albania, Bulgaria and Romania. Countries that are part of the EU but do not use the euro currency as my economy is built on dollars.

We await spring as the holiday season has started, with all the lights and regalia that make the holiday celebrations what they are. The comraderie, the food and the drinks.

All images in this story are courtesy of various websites including Getty images, shuttercock and Pan Am Airways archives.

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Florida bound

After living in Spain for most of this year, we have to return to the United States, specifically Delray Beach, Florida, because in these crazy times I sold my inherited condominium in a planned and gated community of 3000 people. 

Life in Florida

When my dad died in 2017, I was the trust administrator and after dispersing all his requests, I became the new owner of this 1200 sq ft ground floor corner unit on what appeared to be a non functioning green golf course that had a few small lakes. The only caveat to this gift was he asked me to keep it for 5 years and perhaps learn to enjoy and relax into the ways of Florida.

So as I had no need of the money or the space, I mentally agreed to his condition.

Starting that year I continued to rent out the condo seasonally to folks who were fleeing the cold and snow of the north. At first this was lucrative as taxes were not bad, nor insurance and the quarterly maintenance dues were all able to be paid by the four month rental income.

Changes

In 2018 things started to change as the hurricane season continued to not only grow in length but in intensity when the insurance rates were pretty much doubled and many insurers left Florida limiting the competition and the pricing. Insurance rates rose in 2020 approx 35%.

Then the rise of taxes went from reaching a new high 0.71 % which on a condo valued at $120,000 is about $ 2400 but it’s still one of the least expensive property taxes in the USA. Typical taxes in the USA are about 9% depending on location and service.

Next came the additional burden of maintenance of the 30 year old buildings as this was just prior to the collapse of the beachfront tower that had not been maintained for years in 2021.

New stricter rules have been implemented for all condominium buildings in general but especially those on the water, these rulings have led to a halt to such horrible and preventable destruction.

Hard number to scrunch

But the hardest number to crunch was the community HOA which had started out at approximately $ 5000 per year now in 2025 was $ 11000 per year which of course included a total do over of the aging club house and a few other upgrades.

In this community there are acres of lawn to maintain, extensive gardens, lots of outdoor pools and an indoor pool, a gymnasium, card rooms, billiards rooms, a fully functioning theatre and a ballroom!

Lots of stuff to enjoy if you like the gated community experience of living with people just like you. Plus like the security of knowing that people can only gain admittance with permission.

This part of Florida is totally a driving area as  everything is located in a strip mall, so a car is mandatory although there is a market within walking distance. I think in the years I have had this place I have seen an occasional person on a bicycle or even walking. As to public transportation it’s a step above nonexistent.

It was my father’s

n thinking about this place it’s always been about my father. He was a holocaust survivor who lived to the ripe old age of 94 dying from a genetic disease called Melia Dysplasia Syndrome that is prone to attack people over 70 years of age. This disease is an anemia based blood disease which in 2017 was not well known but now as this genetic mutation is on the 7th gene, and is now one of the most studied mutations.

But back to my Dad, he was an avid tennis player until he was 90. After he retired at 65, he devoted himself to his passion, playing tennis. He loved trash talking on the courts and was condominium champion quite a few times as evidenced by his trophy chest. He later in his life became a talented primitive watercolor painter. Many of his pieces hang in this Florida apartment. Their totally unsophisticated compositions are quite sweet in their own way.

My dad couldn’t stand foolish people or opinions he disagreed with and was happy to tell you so with his finger pointing technique aimed at your chest. Speaking English in a nuanced Polish accent, he could never say the word thumb properly as the “ th“ sound for non native speakers is very difficult to pronounce.

Language

This phenomena has to do with the shape of the mouth when speaking, as English involves the front of the mouth and using the tongue in the teeth and many other languages use the back of the and are much softer.

For me, Florida in my mind is a vast wasteland populated by former New Yorkers who are very rude and demanding folks. There are the Canadian snow birds too who are slightly kinder but this area of Florida is filled with folks from the Washington DC area all the way into Maine. These folks migrate to Florida for the warmth and the vision of sitting on the beach in 85 degree weather while their neighbors shovel the snow from the driveways and dig out their cars after being buried by the snow plow that did the streets at 5 am.

In getting to know myself I have discovered I an urban person who uses public transportation, taxis or electric motorcycles to get around town. As I prefer shopping for my groceries in small stores.

While this condo has been a great experience  for a month or so? It’s not really my type of life as the people you know are pretty much all from your peer group, mostly older retirees that are white. Their interests are playing golf, moaning about everything they think is wrong with everything and generally not very happy about anything.

They could be Republicans or Democrats, some are very active in politics while others are having fun as thespians and designers. While others work out daily at the gym and are incessant walkers as there are great trails in the property.

Are you active?

Most folks are living a sedentary lifestyle and are very content with that.


I prefer to be active, walking and dancing tango and exercising in my house.

Living in Valencia we met Rosie who works at Remax and decided to market the condo for me. She discovered a connection to a realtor in Delray Beach too and was able to sell the apartment for me.

Happiness is…

This sale will close in the middle of December and I am so happy to be able to enjoy the condo and the new owner is very happy for the condo.

H

We to live in Barcelona continuing living the lives that we choose with urban living, walking the city, shopping for fresh food at local markets and of course continuing to dance dance tango and enjoying living life with my partner.

So you want to dance in the milongas in Barcelona

In Barcelona, tango is a bit different from what it is in Buenos Aires; here too there is a passion for tango, a passion for connection  but everything is not as impassioned.

Outside of Argentina, that passion for the dance and lifestyle is reduced to recreation, whereas in Buenos Aires, tango —the dance and the milongas—has a different intensity. Lots of enthusiasm and energy.

The city of Barcelona has an excellent public transportation system, which allows you to go out dancing late and most nights take a night bus or taxi back home. The night buses run from 10.30 pm until 5.30 am.

It may well be possible to go tango dancing almost every night in Barcelona.

Dance all night

On Tuesday night, there is Milonga Mia. A small but well-attended event, both by locals and visitors.

The room is an ample club space with lovely wooden floors. On either side of the main long wall, couches are placed, along with a few chairs. The most important thing to remember is that the couch or chair is not yours for the entire evening. It’s possible to keep, but it will require some rearranging and sitting.

Dancers range on age

The dancers range in age from the early twenties to the late eighties, and, as usual, there are more women than men. Some dancers feel their tango is superior to others, while others are trying out some new step they learned in a class.

On the whole, the room is friendly and cabeceos can go both ways here.


The DJs usually play a full assortment of traditional tango, and the resident DJ, Eddy, is not only a good DJ but also a beautiful dancer.


Milonga Mia
Time:9:00 PM to midnight
http://www.instagram.com/milongamia/
Bruniquer Street, 45 – Joanic
+34 655 151 194 – lamilonga.mia@gmail.com

There is a Milonga on Wednesday called The Messy, but we have never attended, so we have no information.

Time: 9pm to midnight 

C Olivera 55

Always possible more

On Thursday, there is Casa Valencia. This milonga has been in existence for approximately 20 years, and the organizer is Antonia Barrera. It is located on the 2nd floor, accessible by stairs or elevator, in a beautiful old club complete with a bar.

When you first exit the elevator, you step into the open hall area, which features tables and a bar. Then, as you hear the music and walk into the Milonga, you are greeted by Antonia herself or a member of her family. An abrazo, a bit of conversation, and after paying your admission. A table is reserved for you. Another if not.

The DJs here are usually excellent, hailing from not only Barcelona but also Spain and Europe in general.  Depending on the DJ, the music can be varied. As we’ve been attending this milonga for a while, we are known, and the act of giving and receiving abrazos is a welcoming gesture. It almost feels like we are back at a milonga in Buenos Aires. Almost.

As to the dancing, again the range of embrazos is quite extensive, from open to closed, as per usual, tangueros are listening to the music while some are dancing to the beats of the music that only they can hear.  On most nights, there is a performance by a maestro couple visiting from out of the area. Sometimes these are excellent, and sometimes meh! Like most exhibitions.

What is different

What sets Casa Valencia apart from the rest of the milongas in Barcelona is that it attracts a crowd that is typically a bit younger, perhaps more international in scope, and has been in operation for over 20 years.

However, we are always happy to see old friends and dance with new ones, creating a very friendly experience for both new and seasoned dancers.


The room has large round tables, which create a good atmosphere for not only dancing but also chatting up. It’s at this milonga that we have met new friends from different countries.

Time: 10:00 PM to 1:30 AM
http://www.antoniatango.com
Casa Valencia – C/ Córcega 335, main – Diagonal
+34 934 234 817 –info@antoniatango.com

On Fridays, there is another milonga run by a couple originally from Argentina, Graciela and Osvaldo Tango. Their milonga is on Friday nights, starting at 10:00 p.m. The space is a small, club-like area that they decorate for the season, with small chairs and tables scattered against the walls. This space is well-attended by both locals and visitors, so a reservation is definitely recommended.

And a slightly different

This milonga definitely has its fans and supporters, as Osvaldo liked to consider himself not only the house DJ but also a singer of tango, which is also the sweetest of genres. However, it may take some time to develop an appreciation for it.

Sometimes, at these milongas, the dancing can be somewhat haphazard, as the floor is small and many people want to dance, with a variety of different tango styles.

We have attended many times and enjoyed ourselves, but often left early as the space can get chaotic later in the evening, and perhaps people are thrilled as it is Friday night.

Milonga La Yumba

Time: 9:30 PM to 1 AM

89 Calabria Street

+34 626 10 74 15


On Saturday, there is Milonga De Emotión, held at the old club that is entered by walking down a flight of stairs.  Once situated in the tango club, you noticed a bar to one side, and the dance floor is a medium-sized rectangular space with wooden floors.

And around the room

Scattered around the room are tables and chairs, creating a comfortable space to sit or dance. There is a DJ booth in the back of the room, and the DJs usually play classic old Tango. The space is run by Liliana Tolomei and Santiago Leon, lovely and warm people and tango maestros. Santiago is very generous with his dancing  and will usually dance with newcomers, as is Liliana. Many classes are held in the space too.

n this smaller space, we have danced many a night, enjoying the amiable nature of the space and the dancers. The dancers here are usually very good, both enjoying the floor and the music.

MMolonga De Emotio

Time: 9:00 PM to 1:00 AM
Gran via de les corts catalanes 432 – Rocafort
+34 671 094 986 – http://www.emocion-tango.com lilianatolomei@emocion-tango.com

On Sunday, there is a wonderful milonga called the El Living. It is run by an Argentine man, Martin. The milonga is located in the penthouse of a residential apartment building where the elevators are the size of freight cars. The space is intimate, and the milonga seems to be very friendly and open.

The space is decorated with old vinyl records on the walls and there are sofas, tables and chairs scattered around the room.

In our experience, this milonga is one of the friendliest in Barcelona, which I think is partly due to its obscure location. You almost feel like you’re sharing a secret when you arrive there.

The DJ is usually local playing many classic tangos and the dancing is fun and open. Here things are a little more carefree than in other molingas creating a very pleasant environment where both sexes cabeco.


We had fun here not only for the danceling, but we also met friends from other places at this milonga.

Milonga El Living
Time: 8:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.  C/ Pallars 65-71 4th penthouse

The familiarity of tango

Another aspect of the small tango world that I love. Talk to someone new for 5 minutes and I’m sure there’s common person or place with that person after all tango is a small international world.

Link

Milongas | BCN

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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