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Baguettes, Bocadillos, and Bad Knees — Bread Life in Barcelona

In this city, it is common to see people carrying a baguette. They walk  back from the bakery with their baguette to their home or office. Older women are seen walking with their grocery carts, often having loaves of bread sticking out. Children can be seen on the street using a baguette as a sword and enjoying a mock battle.

When walking the streets of Barcelona, there must be at least one bakery or panadería on every block. The types of bread offered vary widely depending on where you are in the city.

The long, thin loaf, which looks like a French baguette, is called pan de barra. It is a long, hard, drier version of the baguette, making it perfect for a bocadillo – the delicious sandwich that is the staple of Spanish cuisine.

The other staple of Catalan cuisine in Barcelona is pan con tomatoes. This pillar of Catalan gastronomy is prepared by toasting bread –  often peasant bread and rubbing it with ripe “hanging” tomatoes, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, and salt. It is a simple, inexpensive, and traditional dish, served in almost all tapas bars and restaurants in the city as an essential accompaniment.

Bread is not just for breakfast; it is suitable for any time of day. On many mornings, the lines at most bakeries stretch out the door, many sell out in the early.

A great deal of wheat is grown here in Spain; no GMO wheat is grown for human consumption, in line with the current EU policies.


The wheat grown in Spain is soft wheat for breads and animal feed, and durum wheat, used for pasta and semolina. Spelt wheat is still cultivated, as it has been grown in Spain for centuries since Roman times. Unfortunately, it must be harvested by hand because of its hull, making it more labor-intensive. Still, the flavor of the finished bread outweighs the addes cost, to those familiar with this grain.

For those of us who are gluten intolerant is something we look at but do not eat.

I love the smell of bread, especially freshly baked. Vven a delicious sourdough bread –  masa madre will catch up with us, causing inflammation in our knees. 

Once in a while, we can’t help ourselves as the bread is so delicious that we’re happy to suffer for the flavor, especially when toasted with olive oil or butter. The Spanish always prefer olive oil to butter. Either way, it’s delicious.

These smells are memories. Like a child in a bakery and wanting all the products in sight, that’s what visiting a bakery in Barcelona is like.  There are two types of bakeries, one for bread and rolls only and the other for cakes and cookies. The variety of forms and flavors is inspirational.

But in the world of breads, there is a wide variety of flours, shapes, and flavors. I would love to say I know them all, but I do not.

What I can tell you about the gluten-free bakeries that we have discovered in this city. It is not hard to be gluten-free here, though for me, it’s a choice, as I somewhat intolerant of gluten but not celiac.  

One of my favorite breads is called masa madre –  sourdough. One bakery in particular does the most amazing bread. Oz Bakery, we used to live down the street from this cafe/ bakery. Unfortunately I cant eat s

until my knees revolted and I was creaking constantly.  The smell and taste are fantastic, but unfortunately, I can’t eat it any longer. 

Or let me rephrase, I won’t do that to my body anymore. Once in a while, it’s a delicious treat.

Personally, good bread is a necessity in daily life. We are so lucky to have discovered Jansana Bakery. This is a strictly gluten-free bakery that folks with celiac love. It was started in 1940. We go there once a month and buy bread and treats for a month. Thank god we have a good-sized refrigerator with a freezer.  Five loaves of sliced country bread, chocolate-dipped small palmiers, apple pie in the French style, and a few cinnamon rolls.

This feast, removed from the freezer as needed, makes eating wonderfully satisfying – and my knees stay quiet.

The flavors are comparable to regular products. In Spain and most of the EU, there are no additives in the food; the flavors are wholesome and cleaner than in many other places.

I love the bread here, especially with good butter or ghee. The Spaniards wholeheartedly prefer olive oil. I am trying to make the switch, but it’s difficult when the butter tastes so good. Eating healthily is easy here with the abundance of fresh markets and the proliferation of markets.

Imagine a fresh farmer’s market every day, that’s the way the fresh markets operate here. Loaded with fresh vegetables, lots of ripe tomatoes, chicken, steaks, pork freshly caught, fish and lots of varieties of cheese. Think of 25 different vendors gathered under one roof that are open six days a week. From early morning until 20.

Normal supermarkets, depending on the chain, run the gamut from budget to expensive. One great local chain is Veritas. It has everything fresh and organic, and is especially good for olive oils, soup broths, and fresh fruit.

Eating well here is simple way of life.

So we must eat!

Bon provecho.

Links: https://www.gimmesomeoven.com/tomato-rubbed-bread-pa-amb-tomaquet-pan-con-tomate/


Four Days, One Van, and a Very Sore Back!

Capervan

We have lived in Barcelona for seven months now without traveling anywhere. We decided we needed an adventure but not on a plane or a train.

We rented this Volkswagen California van for 4 days. The price was reasonable. We rented the bedding too, and a kitchen package. We had towels from Turkey and food from our apartment.  We packed a few articles of clothing, the stovetop expresso maker and some food into a suitcase along with my pillow. Simplifies the moving process.
I jokingly told my partner, Maximo, that he was out of practice with moving luggage, since we hadn’t traveled anywhere in months. He told me he was an expert and then dealt with the bag.

The pickup point for Roadsurfer says it’s in Barcelona, but it’s actually in Viladecans, which is a 30-minute cab ride from our apartment in Garcias.

campervans
Checking in was pretty simple

Checking in was pretty simple, since most of the work was done on the website, but, like anything, it takes time to go through the complete list.

The van we rented was a Volkswagen California beach model. It’s pretty small, but it features a manual pop-top roof, and located in the rear of the van is a couch that becomes a bed, an electric cooler, and a single 5propane burner.

The woman who checked us in was named Gerta and she had worked with this company for many years.  I asked her who the people were renting these vans… she said, “hippies.” I had to stop myself from laughing out loud because I do remember the original Volkswagen vans.

camporvan
Years ago, camping

Years ago, they were okay to camp out in, but when driving up a hill, the joke was that you could walk faster than the van could go. Fond memories!!! Wow! Almost 50 years ago.

After receiving our instructions on how to use everything  it was time to hit the road. We had a full tank of diesel, and it was only 1 o’clock. Maximo is the driver, and my job is the navigator.

And of course, for us, the first thing we wanted was to get a coffee, but we decided to drive for an hour before stopping.

Driving the secondary roads

Driving the secondary roads, we are usually assured a scenic route. In Spain, every city or town has a church in the middle of the town or at the highest elevation. Nearby is the open-air market that sells mostly fresh food, including meats, fruits, and vegetables.

Stopping at a market is meeting the town’s folk where they live.  The quality of food is very good, and so many casero foods [homemade] are offered. In Cataluña, the bread is fresh and comes slathered with tomatoes. The sausages are made of various types of meat, and the Iberian ham is delicious. The prices of fresh food is not as high as in, say, the USA.

We love shopping at these markets, and today we really don’t need anything except maybe some fruit. On this road trip, we will not be cooking; we will be finding local restaurants to eat at.

We find our coffee while camping

We find our coffee at a small restaurant up in the hills. We enter and see the wood-fired cooking area. We look at each other and wish we were hungry because the food on the tables looks great.  Alas, we buy our coffee to go, promising the restaurant’s maître d’ that we will return later in the day. This is one of the habits that you acquire while living in Spain. You always say you will return.

We continued our driving for another 90 minutes before arriving at our camping destination in the small town of Bagaure. It’s early in the season, and we are the only people spending the night. We meet a young tech guy working remotely from this campground.  He’s been living here for a couple of weeks saying, “It’s inexpensive and has great internet coverage”.

The next step for us, as it’s getting dark, is to make our bed. Sunset is at 6.30. We are parked close to the bathrooms and showers. Plugged into the electrical outlet with our cord, we started making the bed.  This happens by transforming the back seats into a lying-down position and adding a folded-up cushion. We unfastened the manual pop-top roof, and now Maximo can stand up in the van. The heater runs separately from the motor, so we will stay toasty warm as temperatures are expected to drop to almost freezing.

Next is dinner

Next is dinner, which the camp host, Alina, has agreed to cook for us. We chose lamb, salad, and potatoes, agreeing to return at 7.30 for dinner.

As the bed was made, we decided to explore the old town down the road across the river. The drive was short, and the town was built up the hill. The roads are closed to everyone except locals. Most of the town looks deserted, and the one restaurant is closed on weekends. Rain turned a small stream into a wide river, flooding the surrounding landscape.

After driving for 10 minutes crossing the bridge over the roaring river, it was time to return, as it was getting dark and we were hungry.

Dinner was delicious

Dinner was delicious; we enjoyed the food and had a couple of alcohol-free beers. The stars came out in the pitch-black sky, but OMG, it was so cold, I couldn’t stay out. At 9pm, it was time for bed!

Frequent waking is not ideal for camping, but somehow we made it through the night, and at 8.30 our host emailed and said coffee was on. We enjoyed the hot beverages and ate bread with cheese and ham from our food stash.

Leaving the campgrounds shortly after 9,we drove through the foggy valley.  Slowly,with the passing of time and the earth warming up, the fog dissipated, and the sun returned.

We were off to

We were off to visit a place called the Sweet Revolution. Maximo had discovered this place years ago, as this is a farm that grows and distributes natural medicinal plants and herbs. The farm was founded Miguel Figueroa, a social activist who believes and practices the idea that plants can cure most diseases. The farm site located off the main road is huge, filled with open-air greenhouses. On Saturdays, the gardens are open to the public for plant purchases and escorted tours. The greenhouses are organized by the diseases the plants can help cure. Insomnia, high blood pressure, etc.

The variety of plant material is very impressive, and, of course, we bought a few plants for our apartment.
We spent quite a time walking through the greenhouses. This was an impressive stop.

While walking through the greenhouses, I noticed my back was very sore from sleeping on the mattress in the campervan. I was thinking that it would not be advisable to spend another night in the van. Plus, I looked at the weather forecast, and it was much warmer and sunnier at the beach.

Off we went to

Off we went to Tarragona, which was another 90-minute drive, with another coffee stop along the way.  Discovering a place for us to stay at a campground that offered not only camping sites but also rooms and mobile homes. Wahooo, said my body. A real bed.

We rented this campervan because we thought to buy a similar vehicle next year. We discovered that this vehicle was too small for us to move around in and be  comfortable, with no bathroom and no kitchen either, so we mutually decided to rule out this smaller van.

Arriving in Hospitalet de Infante just south of Tarragona, we registered and rented a small mobile home for two nights. My back was so happy not to spend the night in the van!!!

The place was just

This place was just what we wanted, right on the Mediterranean with maybe 50 campsites. Quiet, not many young children running around, screaming their heads off at play. What we discovered were mostly campervans from Germany and Belgium, driven by retirees, some with dogs.
The most impressive feature was the deserted sand beach that stretched for quite a distance, and maybe 10 people were in view.

We grabbed the chairs from the van and sat on the beach for the afternoon. It was warm and sunny, and we slowly peeled off our layers. We sat. We talked. We dreamed.

One of the features of staying in a campground is walking the grounds and seeing all the types of vehicles. We looked at many and even were invited to see inside. Most people speak Spanish, German, and English and are usually friendly. 

What we discovered

What we discovered was the type of van that would work for us and the variety of options available.

After a few days out of the city, we were looking forward to our return.

The Spanish countryside is filled with old cities with churches, fortresses, and food markets. Taking the secondary roads allows us to travel slowly, enjoying not only the landscape but also the little interactions with the locals.

I love our road trips. We looking forward to another adventure next month in a larger van equipped with a large bed, a small kitchen area with stove and sink,  a bathroom and a separate heater as spring in Spain is still chilly!

Abrazo Yy Besos

Links:

Camppervan rental

https://roadsurfer.com/

Info about Tarragona

https://www.tarragonaturisme.cat/en

Sweet Revolution

https://dulcerevolucion.com/en/jardin-medicinal



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Waiting: A Meditation

Consequently, my time seems to be filled with waiting.


Waiting to leave the apartment.

Waiting for the bus.

Waiting for the taxi.

Later, when we start to walk towards Carrer Escorial to catch a taxi, at least 5 taxis pass by us. Their little square green unoccupied lights on, silently signaling that they are available for hire. Nevertheless, by the time we arrive at the corner, no taxis are in sight.

We will wait

Eventually, we will wait about 5 minutes. This has become a pattern for us. The school of thought is that when you don’t need a taxi, there are plenty, but when you do, you must wait.

When we shop for groceries at the market, we wait in line to pay. We do our food shopping almost every day.

We walk down the hill to have a coffee or visit a farmacia.
We wait for the bus to take us back up the hill. We wait in a line. Esperar en la fila.

After entering our building, we wait for the elevator to take us up to our third-floor apartment.

In our kitchen, we wait to unload the groceries from the shopping bags.

After doing the laundry, we wait for the washing machine to finish. Then we are waiting to hang the wet laundry on the portable dryer rack.

In our kitchen

We spend a lot of our day waiting. I can now wait patiently. Waiting, I believe, is an acquired skill.

In all probability, I have been an impatient person for most of my life. Nowadays, I am finding there is a luxury in waiting and how it makes you feel. Very quiet and confortable.

Certainly, we do’nt work anymore, as we are retired a few years ago, this absence allows of daily work allows us the time to slow down.

As time moves slowly, even the smallest details take on greater significance and depth.

Occasionally, I revert to being an impatient non-waiter.
Luckily, while living in Barcelona, I have learned to wait patiently.

I can even wait in a line!

I can even wait in a line.

It’s a very Spanish thing to do.

Argentinians practice this too.

Waiting in lines.
To wait. To wait. To wait.

The Spanish people who wait are mostly patient and gentle folks. These folks get upset when harsh or loud voices are used.

The reaction to a loud harsh voice is utter confusion. It’s this vocalization that creates utter chaos and confusion for many Spaniards.

They are not impatient people.

They are not an impatient people. They are very patient and helpful.

Absolutely unwavering in their commitment to enjoy their lives and their families.

They are courteous people except on the street, where they might walk into you and never as much as say “pardon me, desculpeme, or excuse me”.

These people are usually fast and intentful walkers and talkers. The clack-clack of leather boots on the sidewalk is very familiar. Generally, with all the rain we are experiencing, feet are divided into sneakers and boots. People wear all sorts of boots here, from cowboy boots to over-the-knee high-heeled boots. The way people walk mirrors the sound their boots make on the street. Some sounds are sharp, while others are thuds.

There is much conversation

There is much conversation on the street.  Enthusiastic voices talking about their day, the weather, and their lives.

But create a loud, undignified shout-out noise.
Boom.
You get this look of hurt, the look representing the words, Are you a crazy person doing this horrible and uncomfortable action?

Spaniards don’t like to be uncomfortable.

Spaniards don’t like to be uncomfortable.

Spaniards love their families and their food. Not sure which is a greater passion.  On a recent Sunday, we stopped by one of our favorite neighborhood cafes about four blocks away in a small square.


The were tables set. There were many butane barbecues with people cooking sausages or calcotadas [green onions]. Lots of beans in huge bowls. White tents covering the other food stations.

The white banner stretched

The white banner stretched above the barbecue station, declaring this was a fundraiser for the upcoming big festival in March.

Mothers gathered with their babies in strollers, dancing to the music blasting from the speakers. Children ran free. Men huddled in groups, talking, waiting for the food to be ready.

All the tables were packed.  Mothers with sons. Lovers out for a leisurely brunch. Families with children in strollers. Lots of co-workers are sitting at the larger tables.

As my Spanish language skills progressed, I could follow many conversations. People chat about either family members or their work schedule. Mostly chatting about the inane.  The weather, the Euro, or Trump. The local language is Catalan, which sounds very lispy, and I am starting to understand more of the words.

Listening is another acquired skill.

What surprises me about my eavesdropping is how many languages I hear and understand. This builds my confidence. As a constant learner, I always try to learn new words.

My partner, Maximo Miguel, speaks Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, and Catan and is currently learning English.

We have conversations speaking

We have conversations speaking in many different languages.

Ultimately, language is for communication. My grammar needs work.

Serendipitously, most people understand my Spanish Argentinese.

Continuing to wait and learn while living in Barcelona is very sweet experience.

Abrazo

Ruth




Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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