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Tango Barcelona:Part 1

El Born, Barcelona at night

[As this is a lengthy survey on tango in Barcelona,  will be published in two sections.]

We live in this city and dance almost nightly and just finished a wonderful visit with friends from Istanbul and Seattle.

Church in old town

Living here makes it exciting to share the parts of the city that we have grown to love. The old city is always my favorite, but we spend time in many different barrios and we are trying to figure out where we want to live in the future.

In the city of Barcelona, it takes 30 minutes to get anywhere in the city. It’s about the same time for Buenos Aires but for Istanbul it’s a bit different it takes a minimum of an hour.

The city is thick with bars, restaurants, music clubs a plethora of nail salons, and tourist trinket vendors but the good news is almost every night there is a tango Milonga.

Dancing at Casa Valencia

Tango has proliferated in the last years, as 25 years ago there was only the Thursday night Milonga at Casa Valencia which was started and continues under the original organizer Antonia Barrera. The quality of dancing is usually very nice with a mixture of open and closed embrace. There is a tango class before the milonga taught by various teachers. The mixture of people from different countries especially Francia and Italy attests to the proximity of those countries.
Argentina is well represented in this tango community as many folks emigrated to Spain in the past.

Photo by Som Mes SomLlum

Before I give my perspective on the Milongas here, I have to disclose my tango preferences. I will start by saying that to me, tango is close embrace. Tango is listening to the music. Tango is the embrace of your partner. Tango is listening to each others hearts, listening to the music, and keeping in contact with the floor. That’s how I like my tango. Add some fantastic golden age orchestras,  ie Di Sarli, or Pugliese…and I’m in heaven.

With that said, Tango for me is not endless giros on the floor in open embrace. In Tango it’s important to listen to the music and dance to the music. If you can’t hear or understand the music, that’s what a musicality class is for!!

So now that I’ve disclosed that…here are my thoughts

On Mondays for many years was the Sagrada milonga, which is in a small space. Here there usually are more women than men. The embraces are mostly closed but a few insist on open embrace and doing many giros.  The music has been excellent both times we visited.

Unfortunately at this time they are on hiatus for the summer and are not sure of their return.

Dancing at Sagranda Milonga

On Tuesday there is Tango Mia. This is a small club with couches around a rectangular dance floor with a small bar in the corner. The DJ has a small table on the opposite side of the room. This milonga has rotating DJs and the dancing is as varied as the world of tango. This place attracts a good caliber of dancers but as the space is intimate and can be a bit clicky….but worth a visit. Especially if you can get a dance with the co-host Eddy. He’s a lovely dancer and very nice man and a good TDJ.

On Wednesday there is a milonga but we have not gone there. We take the night off and go listen to live music.

Thursday is Casa Valencia Milonga which we always have to go to. The dj here is always excellent, but the floor is crowded. And the crowd is mixed with the older dancers and lots of younger ones too.

Dancing at La Yumba

Friday has a couple of selections. La Yumba run by a couple of Argentinas Graciela Y Osvaldo. The club is the size of El Beso with not as many seats. Reservations are a must here. The music is traditional and the co-host Osvaldo will sometimes sing the songs in a rich baritone voice. Again the dancing can be varied in quality, but mostly the middle-aged milonga crowd is friendly.

There are other 2 milongas on Friday that we have yet to visit.

There are many milongas on Saturday and Sunday too. Outdoors too. Plus lots of marathons and festivals nearby.

Part 2 on the Milongas in Barcelona will be published in a few days.

Then we are off to Rome to dance at the Amor d’Rome Encuentro.

Found on am anonymous bathroom stall


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Published by Ruth Offen

I chose tango as my dance because I love the lifestyle, embrace, and, yes, dressing up. In my tango series, I share images shot worldwide, in the places where I have danced: Spain, France, Germany Turkey,Canada,Italy Greece, and the USA, but mostly in Buenos Aires, Argentina. With my written stories, I try to share some of the experiences that have stayed with me... An amazing embrace, a beautiful meal, a slightly uncomfortable life moment at a stay a train station or airport. These are the moments we remember. As to my personal info, I was born in New Jersey eventually, after living in New York, Boston, and San Francisco, most recently on San Juan Island in Washington state, I moved to Buenos Aires in January 2020. For 38 years, years I curated a contemporary art gallery, where I refined my skills and became a visual editor. Always with a camera or some picture-capturing device in tow [including much heavy equipment], I started my travel at approximately the same time, was introduced to tango about 12 years ago. VIsual storytelling begins with a moment. Some internal mechanism is triggered by a scene or event or movement and ...there's your photo. Other times, it’s about a sliver of color or something else odd or ordinary that captures the eye. As I am now fluent in Spanish, it is my desire that my stories and photos reach the broader tango community and other travelers. Travelingtango offers translations into Spanish, Italian, and German. Abrazo!!!

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