Hola. 
Bienvenida
Welcome

Greetings from Buenos Aires

Recoleta Park with it’s giant menorah.

Happy New Year!

Happy Hannuka and Merry Christmas

It’s the time of year to both look-back and look forward.

So, a recap, this year we spent 3 months living in Barcelona, one month exploring Croatia in a campervan, and enjoying an adventure.  Two weeks in Krakow dancing at two very different Tango festivals.  After two weeks in Helsinki, we explored this northernmost city in late September when it was so cold here.  We even decided to go further north to Rovaniemi on the Artic Circle to see the Northern Lights, we were fortunate and did see them if only a fleeting view. Next off, a week in France for tango camp with Liz and Yannick Vanhove. Then, a couple of weeks of dancing tango in Porto and Lisboa, returning to Delray Beach in mid-October, where we lived until early December.  We did something wonderful and crazy as we went to Venice to dance tango when the temperature was barely in the 50s. After almost 2 weeks there, we returned to Buenos Aires, where the weather is currently a comfortable 75 degrees.

Ahh Venice so pretty & so cold then

I am not sure how many miles we flew or airports we waited in, but we had some wonderful experiences. Taking the local bus from Rovinj, Croatia to Pula, Croatia, to visit one of the oldest intact coliseums. Taking the train from Estacion de Francia in Barcelona to Stiges, a well-known beautiful beach community about an hour south of Barcelona.  We flew to Rome for a tango encuentro when the city was its hottest in mid-July.  Too many people in Rome I would like to return, just not in summer.

And now, I am back in one of my favorite cities in the world. It’s so nice to be in a place I do call home.

Avenida Corrientes at night

We have connected with some old friends, but as this is the holiday season, most folks are preoccupied with family, especially here in Argentina.

Lots of tango at the milongas that we prefer, but there is so much tango in so many  places in this city. It is wonderful.

San Telmo Market

We currently have a good friend visiting from the States. This is her second trip here, and she is loving her time here. Dancing and shopping and dancing and shopping. As she is a successful independent woman, her tango action plan was to take private classes from a great teacher. Go out dancing nightly with a taxi dancer. [For those of you who don’t know, a taxi dancer is an excellent dancer who is hired to dance exclusively with a person for the time period that is negotiated and at a fixed price in US dollars]  All this ensures that she will have an excellent time dancing for two hours with an excellent dancer at a milonga. AHH, for many, this is tango heaven.

Maximo, me, and Suzanne

And she will continue doing this for another week.  She is doing this now, as her hometown milongas are not filled with taxi dancers or even many wonderful leeds. Unfortunately, this is true for many places in the world, too.

So as we prepare to go to  New Year’s Eve milonga at the Abasto Hotel this evening. I reflect on the times here in Buenos Aires.

Dancing at El Beso

Yes, there are many changes, especially in the exchange rate here as Dolar Blue and the official currency exchange rate only differ by 100 pesos.

Yes, it is more expensive to eat out at restaurants with prices bordering what you pay for dinner in the US.

But yes, it is Buenos Aires the capital of tango. The corazón of tango.

Orchestra Los Herederos del Campos

This city is home to many beautiful tango orchestras and home to many beautiful milongas. Home to many beautiful cafes. Home to many wonderful people as well. It’s the people who make the city marvelous.

For me, Buenos Aires is a sort  of a home. It is the home of my heart.

Maximo and I

My wish for you is happiness in your heart and calm in your soul. Finding comfort in friends and family.

Abrazo y besitos,

Thank you for taking the time to read me.

First Day. Return BsAs

Montevideo y Quintana

Wow, it was so wonderful to return to BsAs. 

When we arrived, after we finished with customs and immigration we walked through the departure, gates, we were so surprised by the number of folks waiting at the airport for friends or family. It was so crowded. People standing with homemade signs, others with flowers, and professional drivers holding name signs. All these people were waiting.

Walking with our luggage cart, we found the door that our driver wanted us to meet at.
We found our driver Daniel who will transport us to our rental apartment in the city. This is an apartment I have rented a few times before. A bright and sunny two-bed and two-bath apartment on the quiet side of the building on Montevideo Avenue. My apartment is located in what is considered the most beautiful part of the city, Recoleta. I agree, that’s why I rent it.

Maximo with the baggage cart in Venice

When we arrived, we were greeted by the doorman, Javier, as if we were family. Yes, we welcome you back to Buenos Aires. Going up in the elevator was memorable as we chatted about this 85-year-old elevator when it was broken down last year for about a week. 5th floor walk up! 

We meet with my agent, getting all the paperwork and money sorted for the apartment. Then, when all the paperwork was finished, we found we were exhausted after flying from Madrid for 12 hours.

Unfortunately, I can’t sleep on a plane no matter how many melatonin gummies I’ve eaten. But I did exist in this semi
zombie state of sleep for 4 hours, so I am guessing this counts for some type of sleep state.

We collapsed on the bed and slept for 5 hours. Upon waking up, we realized we needed to shop for food as the fridge was empty. We walked to the Carrefour market that was close by and bought staples for breakfast. Deciding we were a bit hungry, we had a bite to eat, and our first cup of Argentina coffee. It was good.

Coffee at El Correro

We returned to the apartment and once again collapsed on the bed and slept until 10 the following day. We woke to a text from a friend saying she would arrive shortly. We got up and were ready for the day, and what a typical day in Argentina the day  turned into.

If you have lived here, it will take a moment to remember that in Argentina, time is fluid and not an exact science like in the USA. Being up to 30 minutes late is acceptable. When I first lived here, this habit made me crazy. I had gotten used to it, but after being in the USA for a while, this is something I have to recall and remember to slow down again.

Buenos Aires

After visiting my favorite hair salon, Shock Therapy, for a wash and blow, we decided to do some other errands and needed to take the bus.

First, we tried to refill the Sube transport cards, but we’re unable to do so. After 2 attempts, we said we would try again later.

We grabbed a taxi to go crosstown as we thought we didn’t have enough money on our Sube cards to cover the fare for 3 people.

Now taxis have also doubled in price, too. When you sit down in the cab, the fare begins at 1900 pesos.

After finishing up at a friend’s apartment, we decided once again to try the bus. We’ll see if we have enough money to pay our fares. We boarded the bus, paying our fares, thinking this would get us all the way home. As we proceeded down, Avenida Entre Rios, we got stopped in front of the legislative building on Avenida Callo by a demonstration. As is typical of that section of the city,  there was a protest going on, which shut down the traffic. We were asked to leave the bus after just paying the fare, 2 blocks earlier.

Protest at Legislative Building

We walked across the street to the next bus stop, waited a few minutes, and boarded another bus. My partner told the driver that we had just paid when we were asked to get off the bus because of the protest and that we should not pay again. The driver agreed.

After getting off at our bus stop, we tried again to add money to our transit cards at a couple of different locations, including the train station itself, but none of the machines were working and an oficial  person was not to be found. Typical process for Argentina. I have been told that there is a new app that works for public transportation. I will download it and see if it will work for me.

We went home for a short siesta, and then it was time for dinner. We talked about going to one of our favorite parrillas as we hadn’t had a really good steak in the 9 months of traveling, so it was time.

Interior Parrilla Peña

We went by bus a short distance to the restaurant. It was almost 8 pm early for dinner by Argentinean standards, and the restaurant Parrilla Peña was just starting to get busy.

Our favorite waiter was there, but we weren’t able to sit in his service area. We were close by.  We looked at the menu. The prices were almost doubled for the meats, and the wines had increased by about 40 %.

We ordered our favorites and enjoyed ourselves.  Remembering how big the portions are, we ordered our usual. We had a leftover steak to make steak salads for the following night’s meal. My favorite.


With our leftovers in hand, we walked to the bus stop around the corner.

Having a wonderful dinner with a visiting friend from the States

We skipped dessert at the restaurant, opting to go to an incredible Italian ice cream place, but our bus had other plans as we passed by the stop for the Italian ice cream. So, no Italian ice cream.

Instead, we  went to one of the best local Argentinan ice cream places,  Volta. Ahh, great Belgian chocolate flavor, one of my favorites.

We strolled the short distance from the ice cream place to our apartment, dropping off our friend at her hotel.

As we walked into our apartment, we both said, “What a horrible day we had today.” It is our joke. We use this expression when we have had a good day filled with things that either work out really well or don’t function at all, to anything  in between. This reminds us that we are alive!

So there it is.
Welcome back to BsAs.

Airport Madrid Waiting..


Next story about our returning to the Milongas.

 

Venice in December 2024

After a long day of traveling, we arrived at Marco Polo airport and found the water bus to Venecia. The night was cold, not breezy, and not much of a moon. After consulting with a person and the GPS, we realized our stop station was the Rialto bridge stop.

As we learned, moving around Venice with baggage is challenging, especially going up and over smaller canal bridges. After we left the water bus and started walking, we struggled to cross over a small bridge to get to our hotel. The Splendid Venice Star Hotel.  We were so grateful after 10 minutes to find our hotel that when we entered, I just stood there enjoying the warmth of the space.

Our 4th-floor room with a canal view is very nice, I especially love the bathroom.  Bathtub, shower, and bidet and toilet.
And of course the Illy machine for coffee and these sweet small expresso cups.

The tango festival starts on Friday, so we have a few days to explore the islands.

After getting over the temperature, I understand the
the reason people love Venice.  It has small streets similar in feeling to Barcelona’s El Born. The streets are filled with glass shop after glass shop selling blown glass trinkets in the shape of dragons to cherries with a large eagle, too. Then there are the stores that sell masks to high-end handbags and clothing stores.

There are lots of made-in-China stores, too, so buyers beware. There are lots of restaurants with pizza to pasta and some smaller cafes offering coffee, pastries, and chocolates.

Public transportation takes place in the canals with small and large water buses, Vaporetti. These water buses hold approximately 25 people at a time. We will buy a 3-day pass tomorrow, and this will allow us to discover the city through its canals.

As to the weather, it hasn’t rained, only sprinkled. But the risers are out in St. Marks Square near the St Marks Basilica. They are used to raising the walkways a couple of feet, allowing people to walk the area without getting inundated by water as Venice is sinking. I don’t want to imagine the city underwater as that would be devastating.

The city goes indoors with all this cold weather and seems to be asleep by 22 or so. Walking the small streets at night is a bit of an adventure as on most nights we are accompanied by others speaking Russian, French, Spanish, and lots of Italian. I love listening to this cacophony of languages, but the Italians are the most expressive.

In our 4 days in the city, we have had many different coffee experiences and stopped at a few high-end clothing stores not only to shop but to get out of the cold weather. There are many small carts stacked with tacky cheap souvenirs that are not of Italian origin. The range of food experiences has mostly been a bit above mediocre even after dining in a few top-rated tratorrias.

But the views and the people are fantastic.  Even when just being casual, the Italians have mastered dressing up. It’s the attention to detail and the symmetry chaos…will depend on the person and/or the occasion. Makes for such great people-watching!!!

We are now on the island of San Servolo for the La Reunión Milinguera. This island in the past was home to an insane asylum. Seems poetic justice for a tango Encuentro to be held in such a place as we are all a bit crazy or eccentric to be dancing tango.

Today is Sunday. The final day of the Milinguera. Dancing will start a bit earlier because many people must depart. This has been a fun meet-up allowing us to reconnect with a few folks that we met in Rome. Most of the crowd is Italian with a few French, German, Irish, and a few Americans, too. There are a total of 5 milongas with two each day and the final afternoon one on Sunday. The DJs have been a mixed bag as two were at the festival in Rome, and two were not.

At this milonga, the dancers are mostly dancing in close embrace. Only a few individuals are dancing in open embrace with giro, giro, and giro. Most of the dancers are on time to the music and listen to the music, making the floor a lively place to dance.

Appetizers are served during each afternoon Milonga, but the approach is often very chaotic. When the food arrives, people tend to rush to the serving area, creating lines of chaos. Opps but is not really a line but a swarming.
The same effect is true for the bar area that offers a complimentary beverage ranging from Prosecco to a Campari spritz. I’m not sure if this process can be any smoother!

The accommodations are suitable for a Milonga location. The only issue has been the lack of light at night as during the day, large windows let in a lot of light.

Tonight, we will have dinner with friends before we depart for our homes in various countries. It will be bittersweet as we have enjoyed the company.

The next stop for us is Buenos Aires. We will live here again for approx 4 months. We will reinitialize friendships and finish off a few projects. We will attend the milongas. We will discover the changes in the country that we left earlier this year in April.

Abrazo and many thanks to the organizer of La Reunión Miloguera Michele Sottocasa and his talented crew for making a wonderful event.

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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