Hola. 
Bienvenida
Welcome

The dog days of summer!

And its a hot night at the beach.

The sounds of the bandoneon filled the air with the music that was melancholic yet nostalgic and similar to the music that we dance to in Buenos Aires, or in Rome, but we are in Valencia, Spain.

Indeed, looking across the floor, it is not filled with familiar faces. At the end of August, the evening temperatures remain 90 degrees even at 23 hours. Closing your eyes and feeling the slightly cooler Mediterranean sea breeze on your face is possible.

How hot!

It is  summer in Valencia, with the first two weeks of August in full swing. The city is on summer vacation, and in the last two weeks, the other half of the folks are on vacation.

Try booking any appointment, bureaucratic, legal, or just getting a pedicure; no one responds to your request, and there might be a single green check mark on WhatsApp. But don’t count on a reply. The city is a ghost town, but getting a table at your favorite restaurant is easier.

Street  cafe

St
We are still months away from our return to Buenos Aires. We decided that next summer we will take the month of August to travel to the north, as the weather can be 10 to 20 degrees cooler.

Yes its true all of Europe is on vacation

At this months Sunday’s milonga, I notice that the DJ is also the organizer of the event.  This is Barbara Palmer. She hosts a milonga on the second Sunday of the month and a regular milonga on Thursday nights. Her space is located near the Avenida del Mar, and the space is called Line of Dance Studio.

Delightful, I think to myself. I savor the view of the dancers moving in a circular pattern on the laminated wooden floor.  The diverse range of dancers spans many years, until the most recent is reached.

The women dress their best, while the men wear sportier looks, and some even wear shorts. The woman looked cool dancing with their partner around the outdoor space, which in actuality is the bus station next to the turnaround.

A gyro here , a volcada there!

A gyro here, a volcada there, dancers always listening, always waiting. With the unrestrained smiles, the dancers feel content with their embrace and wit.

Shall we dance?

The waltz is over, a new tanda will begin. The dancers search the floor looking for their next dance; some respond with a slight tilt of the head, saying yes, while others don’t see.

We are sitting at our usual table by the DJ booth. From this piece, we can see the whole room. The woman is sitting side by side, catching up on what’s been happening in the summer world of tango, as many milongas suspended their regular indoor agenda and moved to the MalvaRosa beach.

Fun time of year!

This can be a fun time of year as many peeps love dancing outdoors. And Valencia has many outdoor milongas. The music was played by tall, skinny speakers during the central rotation of the dancing. The dancers leave their shoes and valuables in this pile, creating a mountain of tango.  All people contribute to this pile.

The city gate


Everyone watches as the mountain of stuff continues to grow.
Meanwhile, on the periphery, the cabeceo and the Miranda continue. Most of the dancers seemingly find a partner, and the dancing commences.

The strains of Juan D’Arenzo with all those bandoneons push the dancers into a frenzy. The music builds ecstasy on the floor and in the house..

After being whipped an pushed for 3 tandas, the music subsides. Next up is a Tango.

As the music changes

The music has changed; it is softer and more rhythmic. There is a sweetness to the sound that is felt by all the dancers. It’s as if there is a new awakening on the floor.

The beach milonga

Ahhhgh, dancing tango is one of my favorite activities, especially when I can be in my partner’s embrace, as this is how we first met many milongas ago.

As this is now the beginning of September, our time living in this city is ending for 2025, and we have labored much for our strategy for 2026. The weather has turned cooler with the nighttime temperatures in the low 80s. There are more people on the buses, and then there is the feeling of the whole city of Valencia resetting its internal clocks.  The weather will continue to be hot, but no longer the heat of summer.

The air is starting

As the air is starting to smell of autumn, it is not possible to continue living here this year, as we have family to visit in the USA.

Amazing architecture

So, in the final weeks here, we will visit the dentist we met at a restaurant to have my teeth cleaned and visit my hairdresser here in Valencia, Iegor. So many of the other necessities of life,  when we return to us, we do not do any medical procedures, or for that matter anything else that is or has been  needed as everything in the US is so much more expensive.

We will take the train to Madrid and stay in that city until we fly directly from Madrid to Miami, which is 9 hours of uncomfortable

The art of packing

We have perfected the 23 kg limit with 2 carry-ons, and travel with a scale. Maybe one day we should compare notes on packing.


Upon landing in Florida, our rental car awaits. I am surprising Maximo by renting a Mustang, as this man loves muscle cars. We are only here for a week before we go to the West Coast.

Sitting and enjoying the life

We will miss the ambiance of living in Spain, but it will be a wonderful experience living close to my son in the Northwest and then spending some time visiting friends in Seattle.

Just hope we get a bit of sunshine for our visit, and the traditional gray colors of Seattle.

And the wonder of pink

A links:

http://minglanillawebo


http://tangoenvalenci

a.minglanillaweb.es/

https://todotangoenvalencia.blogspot.com/search/label/milonga?fbclid=IwY2xjawMOIXRleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHmgLsM5M7VmlzHkmERub__saH-IXWrqXX0VOCE-mRpZ81xdENOeKVr4M7Peb_aem_qjvdKoSAjZRN7HMqMTnATw&m=1

Life in Valencia

Pizza with figs, burrata, ricotta, and jamón.
Ahh it’s Valencia!

We have lived in this town for almost 2 months and love it. The climate here tends to be perfect beach weather, high 80s, and lots of sun. The sun rises at 6 AM and now sets close to 10 PM. The sky is lovely at night, as the air cools down and twilight begins. The nights stay warm until midnight, sometimes requiring a shawl or light jacket because of the breeze from the Mediterranean.

The apartment we have been renting for the last 2 months is in a marvelous location with lots of light from the many windows and fans, but unfortunately, it is located on the third floor. My body is done climbing up 60 steps a day.

This week, we are moving to a ground-floor studio with air conditioning in a coliving building space, as the weather in August is likely to be even hotter than it was in July.

Visit to the Oceanografico Aquarium in Turia Park

The town section where we lived is near the port of Valencia and the beach areas.

The new section we are moving to is about 15 minutes away, but a whole different city section. It is called Mont Olivet.

Outwardly, the new neighborhood appears more upscale, with fewer everyday working-class residents than our current neighborhood.At the current neighborhood on the street level, our building houses an auto repair shop, an auto driving school, and a rather uninviting cafe bar, yet we have a beautiful 4-star hotel across the street.

Great little cafe in El Carmen
Getting around Valencia.

Our bus stop is Trafalgar, which is located in this area. We can get anywhere in the city in 30 minutes by bus. Like many modern cities, Valencia has an excellent public transportation system composed of buses, trams, and trains. Most buses are double-hybrid buses, and the trams are electric. We haven’t used our train much, since our station, Aiora, has been closed for maintenance for a while now.

The city offers extensive taxi services through the app Pide Taxi, hailing a cab on the street, or using an official taxi stand. Uber is here, offering rates that are competitive with taxis, but often comes in slightly less expensive.

[We have used the Lime app to rent electric scooters and Yego for electric scooters. Both are here, as are many others, such as Emmy and others who are new to me.

City at night

Getting around the city, using scooters or bicycles, is relatively easy, as there are extensive bike lanes on the streets and in the parks.

But as a pedestrian, I can’t stress enough the importance of paying attention to these alternative modes of transportation. Using lanes that are actually part of the sidewalk can be extremely dangerous if you are not paying attention, as these lanes have separate light signals. Most drivers here use their headsets, possibly not listening to the traffic.

.Crossing the streets in the pedestrian crosswalk is encouraged, as the traffic there will actually stop for you to walk across the street, even without traffic lights on the smaller roads, as pedestrians have the right of way. It’s fantastic.

Fountain in Plaza Reina Christina
Great walking town!

This is a great walking city even in the afternoon heat, as you can usually find shade on a side street. We learned through our travels that many antiquarian cities were intentionally built with very narrow streets, which helped to create afternoon shade, keeping temperatures in the apartments cooler.

It’s Beach Time

With the weather in the upper 80s this week, it’s definitely beach chair time. From our apartment, we take the 92 bus to Mlalva Rosa. It usually takes about 20 minutes. This bus travels on the streets closest to the beach until the end of the line at the roundabout bus station.

From there it’s an easy walk to the beach. Looking at the sparkly Mediterranean from the boardwalk, you’ll notice it’s filled with people eating and drinking, walking, carrying their beach stuff, or strutting in the sun.

Bicycles are not allowed on this side of the street. The section of the beach locally known as MalvaRosa stretches for many kilometers. The further from Valencia city you go, the more naturalistic the beach becomes, with fewer bars, restaurants, and vendor shacks.

Beach Milonga
Life on the beach

The beach areas of MalvaRosa feature numerous volleyball courts that are actively used, showers for feet and body, changing areas, and my personal favorite, the beach lounge and umbrella rental sections. These sections with umbrellas have a distinct Polynesian flavor, as the umbrellas are crafted from thatched grasses. The rental prices are governed by the city, so the rates are very reasonable for the day. We have learned never to go to the beach on Sunday, as it is crowded with many people who work during the week. Worst of all, no beach chairs or umbrellas are available for rent..

In fact, the whole beach area is under the control of the city of Valencia government, allowing the police to have an active presence. Public drinking is permitted on the beaches. Music blasts from different speaker systems all day, ranging from American Rock’N’Roll to Spanish flamenco.

As we walk on the beach, we pass the African woman who offers to braid our hair. Many women try to create a style or color for each client. Other street vendors sell their merchandise in daylight, yet at night, they sell their products under loud generator-powered lights.

Dresses, bikinis, necklaces, sandals, t-shirts. Sandals. All sorts of things. All with the logo of Valencia or other beach memories. .

There are ice cream vendors and small individual barbecues on the concrete boardwalk selling the local sausages and fresh corn on the cob.

More fresh food
The flavors of Valencia

The smell of fried fish can be overwhelming, as can the smell of papas fritas. The elegant beach restaurants are very busy at night, preferring diners who reserve their spots, but always trying to accommodate the walk-ins too. The local Aqua de Valenciana is made fresh for all. This is the Valencia drink, composed of fresh orange juice, vodka, champagne, and other closely guarded ingredients depending on the bar!.

At night, with the cooler weather, people come to the beach boardwalk to eat their home-prepared dinners on their fold-up tables under the lights of the boardwalk. There are families and friends all mingling, eating, and drinking.

Everyone is happy. Not much roughhousing or gang-style fighting on the beach. Here and there, one picks up the random smell of marijuana, but it’s mostly the odor of tobacco or those electronic vape smokes polluting the air.

Nights of Valencias dancing at the beach.
Hot Saturday nights at the beach

On Saturday nights, close to the MalvaRosa roundabout bus station, there is a Tango Milonga on one side and a larger gathering of folks dancing Valencia-style folk dancing on the other..

Both groups are large, with DJs playing their music over portable sound systems. .

We have brought our worst shoes to dance tango. We hear the intense rhythms of Juan D’Arenzo…many couples are dancing on the concrete. Someone has brought a bit of talc powder to soften the ground for the tango pivots. We get a bit of powder on our shoes, then we embrace and dance. Ouch, my knee is unhappy with this floor, so we decided to stop before doing any damage. My partner surveys the crowd, taking in a few familiar faces and a few smiling ones. I sit on the concrete wall that forms the barrier to the circle of concrete that is the dance space.

Everyone’s watching
Watching the tango dancers move

Smiling, I watch as my partner picks another dancer. They start to dance, and then we look into each other’s eyes from across the space. I see a smile for me. I nod and blow a kiss. He dances. She is not as experienced a dancer as he is, so he is kind and polite, slowly walking and only taking a few tango steps. Nothing fancy or overwhelming. Just trying to stay on track dancing until the tanda is over. Then I see he is grateful it’s over. He walks back and sits next to me. We both smiled as I knew it was not a good match-up for him. But he’s a very kind and wonderful man who would ask a woman to dance, often choosing someone who hasn’t danced much that night. That’s who he is.

After spending two hours enjoying the warm evening at this outdoor milonga, we left and walked by the other dance where a crowd had gathered to dance folkloric dances in partner groups. We watch.

All finished
And the night ends.

We are waiting for our Uber to arrive since the bus we needed stopped running at 12 on Sunday night, and it is now almost 1 AM. The night is still very warm, but much of the daytime humidity has dissipated.

Ten minutes later, the Uber arrives.

Yes, pink flamingo at the aquarium
The chimera sculpture on our bridge
Everything is sold in corner vending machines, very handy at midnight when most stores are closed.
THE cafe for drinking Aqua de Valencía

Links for this story:

https://www.facebook.com/tangoenvalenciahttps://viveurope.com/pros-and-cons-of-valencia/

https://www.facebook.com/tangoenvalencia

https://valencialife.es

Other stories

On the road to Berlin

airplane clouds travelingtango.com
Morning view from the plane

Traveling to Berlin

The morning began at 4 a.m., when we left our apartment in Valencia, located on Carrer de Industria, with an Uber to the airport. It turned out to be an uneventful ride in 83-degree weather.

As we did an online check-in, it was a quick walk to the airport security.  In most European airports, your boarding pass serves as your admission to security.  The lines at the Valencia airport are pretty spread out, so it was a reasonably smooth walk until my small green carry-on was selected for inspection. The security officer informed me that I had too many liquids that were not in separate plastic bags. I apologized profusely and asked if he would throw away my products. I smiled, “I am a woman; a little plastic bag just does not have enough space.” The security man grinned and said, “Here’s a plastic bag for the next time.” I responded, “ Thank you, but the rules differ in every airport we visit.” I replied.

Hours later, we unfortunately missed the transfer spot at Schiphol Amsterdam airport for our connecting flight to Berlin. Yet again, we went through security as we had to exit the security zone. In this place, my bag was not opened or commented on.
Again, different cities with different rules all exist on the same continent in Europe.

Walking to our hotel
travelingtango.com
Walking to our hotel

Walking to our hotel

Upon arriving in Berlin, the adventure of finding the correct train to the city and the hotel we needed was not as complex as we had imagined. After buying the ticket and validating it, we boarded the train, found seats, and 45 minutes later arrived in what was, in the past, East Berlin on a gray and drizzly day with a high temperature of 64.
FUC* ME!!!

I was freezing and had forgotten to pack my goose down coat. Luckily, the hotel I had booked was only a 5-minute walk from the station. Upon entering this independently owned hotel, the vibe that enveloped us was groovy music and a receptionist whose voice was in the same key as the music, making it impossible for us to hear one another.

Fortunately, our room was available for check-in even though it was only 1.30. The receptionist tried to upsell us a larger room, but I declined upon learning it would be an additional 50€ per night. We are here in Berlin to dance tango at the Berlin Milinguero Festival.

Sign from the Berlin Milonguero Festival
Travlingtango.com
Showing the way

The Berlin Tango Festival Milonguero

After being accepted into this event, I searched for the hotel closest to the festival’s physical location, as we would be walking back at 1 or 2 a.m.

It’s Thursday, and there is a pre-festival in Milonga tonight, which we might go to. Hope the weather starts to warm up, or I will have to buy a jacket or a big shawl to stay warm.

After deciding that we were tired from the stressful travel day, we walked a short distance from our hotel to find a place to eat dinner. Afterwards, we decided to relax in the lobby with a beverage. This experience is similar to that of other hotels, where the sleeping rooms are smaller and the public space is intentionally designed for socializing, hanging out, and listening to the house DJ.

Michelberger hotel lobby bar travelingtango.com
Michelburger Hotel lobby cafe

Our Groovy Hotel

This hotel is a short walk to the Bebop Club, where the Berlin Tango Milonguero is held. Walking takes us 15 minutes to cross the Spree River and walk alongside it until we reach the Bebop Club.

Upon entering the Club space via the red-carpeted stairs, there’s a line of tangueros paying their 15€ admission or picking up their pre-purchased red wristband.

After getting banded and chatting with the volunteer staff, it’s time to decide where we shall sit. Upon entering the room, one notices long, rectangular tables on both sides, accompanied by single folding chairs and sofas placed at opposite ends. We selected a wall with chairs and small tables near a corner of the room.

mdj spot travelingtango.co
DJ area on the side

We changed our shoes and listened to music. We liked the sound and danced to Di Sarli. It was a nice start to the event for us.

Tango in the afternoon

We danced a few more tandas and then sat watching the flow of dancers on the floor. There are some open dancing embraces, but mostly closed ones. After all, it’s a milonguero event.  As usual, some listen to the music, dancing to the bandoneon or violin beats, while others dance to the beats in their heads. Some dancers are beautiful to observe as they dance, while others are painful to watch. But seeing everyone dancing makes me smile, because it’s tango!

We stayed until just about the end of the event. The music was good and we enjoyed ourselves. We met a few dancers from Spain, even a couple from Valencia who looked familiar. Small tango world, as we both danced at the same dance studio milonga in Valencia on Thursdays.

Milonga travelingtango.com
Tango the milonga

Finding food after Tango

We walked home in the pleasant evening air and were hungry; the food options available in Berlin at 11 pm were excellent. We settled on splitting a doner sandwich. It tasted fantastic as I hadn’t realized I was even hungry.

After finishing our food, we noticed that a few other tangerines had also found this place to eat. We then continued the walk to our hotel.

Night foto along river spree by travelingtango.com
Crossing the Spree River at 1 am

Berlin is a vibrant, free-spirited city where the streets are filled with a diverse mix of people, mostly under 40, who are often dressed in black. A wide range of clothing styles, from extensive body piercings to a blend of leather and lace. We saw a man dressed in an elegant corduroy suit with a banana in his jacket pocket. A variety of transparent black lace options for all genders. An abundance of Doc Marten boots. Men and women wearing black cat eyeliner. An edgy fashion show from the under-30 crowd with lots of ripped clothing and bare midriffs.

We were tucked into bed by midnight …a bit tired but happy.

Posidens fountain Travelingtango.com
Posiden’s fountain near Alexanderplatz Square

Discovering Berlin

That afternoon, we had taken the hop-off, hop-on red bus for a city tour. I had never been to Berlin before and didn’t know that the city was as big as it is now. The tour lasted 3 hours. This city has undergone extensive new construction, as its past destruction was extensive during World War II. Everywhere you look, there is a large construction crane. In the downtown core, everything is new, except for a few remnants of the war, such as the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, and the Victory Column. We acquired an idea of this city and its magnitude on the tour.

brandenburg Gate travelingtango.com
Brandenburg Gate

We were fortunate to be invited by two tango friends living in Berlin to visit their homes in different parts of the city. We took public transportation and purchased an all-day unlimited access pass. Transport in Berlin is quite expensive compared to other European cities. The price was 21€ for both of us. Visiting many neighborhoods off the tourist track is a great way to explore the city.

train station travelingtango.com
Warschauer Station

We were fed fresh, homemade food and had great conversations with each friend we visited. One friend was from Turkey, and the other was an American living part-time in Buenos Aires.  It was a marvelous day, punctuated by a visit to the Berlin Technical Museum in between.

We were worn out when we arrived at our hotel at midnight and fell asleep. That, Sunday morning, we will go to the Nue museum to see the work of Gerhard Richter.

Neus Museum travelingtango.com
Back of Nueus Gallerie

More tango

Later that afternoon, we attended a milonga at the Berlin Tango Milonguero festival, where we met our friend from Buenos Aires.

maximo at the technicalmusem travelingtango.com
Maximo taking flight at the Technical Museum

I am finding that the afternoon milongas are always more fun for us as the dancers are looking to meet new people and enjoy the afternoon of dancing.

The evening milongas feature performances by Tango Maestros and often include a live orchestra’s performance as well.

Berlin was no different, as the orchestra was composed of former Argentinian musicians living in Europe. The name of the orchestra was the Sander Tango Orchestra. They were excellent but only played briefly as the time for the maestros’ performances limited their allotted time.
With the group of dancers tightly crunched up on the floor, seated and standing, they formed a small circle around the maestros, making it impossible for anyone further away to see the performance. We left!

Milonga travelingtango.com
Late-night milonga

The weather for Tango

Walking home, the weather was a bit chilly as rain was predicted for the following day.

Entering the hotel lobby was dark, and a man was cleaning up. He stopped and asked us if we had our key.  We responded Yes. This hotel, like many others, takes guest security very seriously, and access is available only with your key card.

We woke to a rainy, cold gray day. We puttered around the room and then went out for breakfast.

Berlin is expensive

As the hotel offered a buffet breakfast for 28€ per person, we found a small coffee shop where we could both have breakfast for 15€.

We found Berlin to be an expensive city for food, but with restaurants ranging from fast food to extravagant, it’s easy to discover something new to eat. There were Japanese, Korean BBQs, Chinese, Turkish, Italian, German fast and slow foods, and even a Canadian poutine place.

Most of our time was spent on trams learning the city and exploring on foot. People here ride bikes, both electric and traditional, and use rental scooters and numerous motorcycles. As the weather was wet, we chose to walk and take the trains and trams.

Returning to Valencia

After spending 6 days visiting this pretty crazy city, it was time to return to the heat of Valencia.

With an uneventful plane ride to Amsterdam and then a transfer to another plane, we arrived in Valencia at midnight, greeted by 89-degree weather.

We caught a cab and 25 minutes later arrived at our rented apartment.

It was great to return.

us along the river spree
Last night, Milonga, along the River Spree

More information links:

https://www.visitberlin.de/en

https://www.michelbergerhotel.com/en

https://berlinfestivalmilonguero.com/

Extra photos from Berlin

Radio Tower Travelingtango.com
Famous Radio Tower, Berlin
interior of a building travelintango.co
Buidling interior sculptures near the Technical Museum
Alte National Galerie
travelingtango.com
Interior staircase of Alte Nationalgalerie

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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