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Tango in Krakow The Epic!

Who would have suspected that staying in Krakow to see family would allow us to attend two tango events?

I have visited Krakow twice before, but in those days, I didn’t dance tango. In the past when flying I never checked in a bag either. Times do change. As now we travel with a mid size bag and a carry on, besides Tita which is Máximo’ s 100 year old Bandion.

Tango in Krakow is very much alive, and has its own particular vibe. The city and it’s people are welcoming and very helpful. Public transportation is very well  organized and easy to use in Kraków. Here it is okay to be walking around at midnight, as is a pretty safe city.

The Crakow Tango Marathon was started in  2015 and is currently hosted at the Hotel Galaxy. This hotel is a modern space close to the river Vistula. The hotel is a bit off the beaten track for the trams, but taxis are very inexpensive in Krakow. The average price from old town Krakow to the Hotel Galaxy is about 20 zloty or 5$ US.

The festival accepts about 200 people mostly from Poland and the surrounding area but we did see people we had met previosly in Italy, Turkey, and Germany. We even met an Argentino living in Poland too.

The quality of dancing is mixed though mostly seasoned dancers who are practiced in their dance. The styles of dancing again range from open embrace to closed embrace and everything in between.

Not quite the flavor of Buenos Aires, but European felt like some milongas in Barcelona.

People were very amiable [Spanish for friendly, kind, or nice]. All of which apply.

The event room is large with a good wooden floor, with seating sections on the left and right sides, while along the narrow walls is a single line of chairs. The ever-filled snack table is located on the same side as the clothing vendor.


The snack offerings range from meat rolls ups to vegetarian options with fresh grapes and little chocolate candies. The water station has all selections from coffee to teas and, of course, cold water.

The DJs were from Poland, Chile, Cyprus, and Italy.
The schedule was an afternoon Milonga, then a couple-hour break. The evening milonga began at 21, and most nights closed down at 3 or so.
Friday and Saturday nights started at 21, and there was hot food provided for the dancers; perogies and soup were available in the upstairs restaurant available from 22 until finished.

The pre – and post-milongas were held at a small tango club bar close to the Kazimierz district and easily accessible on the trams. This pub, Zaraz Wracum Tu, is home to the ongoing Milonga Loca hosted and organized by the DJ Roman Halek, who is also one of the organizers of the Crakow Tango Marathon. With my conversations with Roman I found him to be a very warm organizer. He tried to dance with every woman who attended the milonga. Generosity of spirit is wonderful trait especially in a tango organizer.

Now we get to the Quiero Verte Tango Festival, which was held the following weekend.


On Thursday night, the pre-opening Milonga was held in a sweet location on the main old town square up on the second floor with wooden floors. It is a club called All That Jazz. There was a wonderful DJ from Poland with a great selection of old tango orchestras. Even with two dance floors, most dancers were unaware of this instead, choosing to dance on the crowded floor. There was complimentary wine but no food.

Then the festival began on Thursday night with a milonga at this beautiful old gymnasium building complete with inlay ceiling and parquet floor.
The room is rectangular with the bar and the DJ booth on the same back side of the room. There are rectangular tables around the floor and a continuous row of folding chairs against the exterior wall.

That afternoon, there was a really good DJ while there were some navigation issues on the floor as the festival accepted 400 dancers.

To me, the average age was mid-40s, and the dancers don’t appear as experienced here as they would like us to think. There seemed to be a lot more open embrace on the floor.


Again, I observed some dancers listening and dancing to the music while others danced to the music in their heads.

On a crowded floor, there is no space to dance with your feet flying through the air for fear of injuring another dancer, but some dancers insist on doing this anyway.

We returned on Friday at 15 in the afternoon to dance again. Another good DJ played away the afternoon, and we danced for hours, enjoying the space and the music. Here, no food is provided for the milongas or beverages except water was available.

After dancing the afternoon away we met a friend for dinner in Kazimierz and it had started to rain. While we had dinner, the light rain became a torrential storm.

After dinner, we tried to get a taxi back to our home base in the old town, as we wanted to return to the Friday evening Milonga but in different clothes.

We waited and waited, finally deciding to take the tram. We waited for the tram in a small protected area but still got soaked to the core. Jackets, pants, and shoes. Walking from the station to our place in record time.

When we finally got back to our home base, we were rain-soaked. We had no dry shoes to wear.  It was still raining. Many areas of the city were flooding, and large lakes of water were affecting the city’s transportation sections. We decided to stay in.

Drying off our clothes was challenging, but overnight, many items dried as we turned up the heat. The next day, the shoes were still wet. We decided to try the hair dryer on them. It worked. Wahoo. Wet shoes are so yucky.

The next day, Saturday, we looked outside, no rain. Gray and overcast but no rain.
We returned to the gymnasium, and I met Maria Kubick, the organizer of the festival. We chatted a bit about the history of the event, which started in 2019. Her intent in creating the festival was to create a space where, in her words, “We strive for perfection.
With our DJs and our maestros drawing from all over Europe.”

As we were traveling to Helsinki, we were unable to attend the 2 milongas on Sunday and the after Milonga on Monday.

Overall, we had a good time in Krakow. How lucky were we to attend two tango festivals back to back in such a beautiful old city? The weather cooperated for most of our two-week stay, but as it is early September, the fall season has begun. The weather is shifting as the planet changes seasons.

The 2025 dates for both festivals can be found on Facebook or the web.

I encourage you to dance in Krakow anytime as not only is it a beautiful city that has great food, but it is a city with a big heart and soul!!!

The world of Krakow tango

Last  Monday night, after not dancing for a month, we danced at this little bar in Krakow called Klub Zaraz Wracam Tu. We stayed in the old town and took the tram there. The ride took 15 minutes, and we passed many beautiful old buildings.

Krakow is one of the few cities that wasn’t destroyed in WWII, but the city was mined by the departing Germans before they left the city, but luckily, the Polish partisans defused the mines. (I have heard many different stories about this.)

As we entered the club, there’s the typical section of smokers gathered around a small table in an even smaller outdoor space. In Poland, smoking is only permitted outside.

Surveying the room dancers, we looked for the host, who is also the dj, Roman Halek. He was dancing as he wasn’t sitting at his computer.


We watched the dancers. We looked at the embraced.
We looked at the steps.
We looked at the floor craft.
We looked at the tables that were all situated against the walls.

We noticed the temperature in the room was quite warm, even if the exterior temperature was a bit cooler.
We waited to find a table until the end of the tanda.

Unexpectedly, we were greeted by a helpful leader who spoke English and told to put our admission price into the open box on the dj table, and we could sit anywhere we liked.

Okay, the seating is a bit similar to most milongas in European countries except here the seating is not assigned to you as experienced in some milongas in Spain or  Buenos Aires and it doesn’t seem neccesaryto make a reservation either.]

We started to walk towards a table, when the organizer, Roman, a big bear of a man, found us and I was greeted with a tango kiss on each cheek. He reiterated, “Please sit anywhere!”

Welcome to Milonga Loca. The room is filled with people dancing. All kinds of embraces and all kinds of bodies. They are mostly closed embraced, but a few are in open embrace. They dance around the room with some sense of etiquette. Some dancing to the music played and others dancing to the rhythms that only the leader hears.

We sit at a large table. We hear the music, and Maximo nods to me, and I respond with a nod.


We asked our neighbors to get up as we have peeps seated on both sides of us. Politely, we move onto the floor, and we take a moment to connect with each other, breathe, and then we move.


I find my body is a bit rigid as I haven’t danced for a month, same is true for my partner. We breathe. We dance. The second tanda is better, and by the third, we are both feeling better and dancing a bit looser.

We dance, we chat with our table mates. We drink our water from our canteens. If a beverage is wanted, you must walk up to the bar in the front  area, order it, and bring it to your table.

We stay for a few hours. Enjoying the tango classic music of the old orchestras. We enjoy watching the peeps dance. Good DJ and music selections.

We take our leave as in reading the transportion schedule the trams stop running at 11.30 and the last run of the night is by bus.

We wait, and the bus shows up exactly on time. My partner remarks, “We are not in Argentina.” This is a reference that implies service in Argentina is very different. And it is!

We meet a fellow tangero at the bus stop. He lives here in Kraków and in Northern California. In our small world, we find we share many friends in tango.

We shall see him again at the Crakow Tango Marathon that begins shortly.

Once again, we are stuck with how small our world of traveling and tango actually is.


We love it!!!

More on tango in Krakow as we have two festivals here. This weekend, Crakow Tango Festival and next weekend with Quiero Verte Tango Festival. But all starts tonight with an appearance at a local club of Marisol Martínez  with Andariega Orchestra from Buenos Aires.  Another small world coincidence as we met her at El Beso.

Abrazo del Krakow

Our last Friday in Rovinj, Croatia

We extended our stay here by 6 extra days because it is so beautiful.
The town is approximately a 25-minute walk from our camp or a 10-minute ride on this train vehicle with two-car passenger seating areas. Or if you miss this transport you can take a cab for 10 €.

The old town of Rovinj is filled with cobblestone streets worn down by time. No cars are allowed in the old town streets after dark.


There are shops, art galleries, restaurants, and many gelato stores as eating gelato on a hot summer day is a must. All streets seem to end up on the harbor, so there are afternoon breezes that are welcomed as the weather has been in the mid-80s to mid-90s.

The old city used to be on a separate island close to the coast. It became connected to the mainland in 1763 by filling in the channel.
For 500 years, the Istrian península was governed by Venezia, which accounts for the strong Italian influence. Most signs in this península are mandated to be written in Croat and Italian.

The Italian influence is felt all around from the warm colors of the buildings to the flavor of the food.
We enjoy our almost daily ramblings around the city. We try to only walk in the shady streets, looking for a spot for the afternoon coffee. This led us to discover many obscure corners of the city that are uncrowded.

We have eaten lunch or dinner at many local restaurants, but we prepare breakfast in the campervan, fresh coffee, and a sandwich or berries and yogurt.

Today, on our last day in Rovinj, we will once again go to the beach and rent two lounge chairs with pillows and a large umbrella.  We will swim in the Adriatic today as tomorrow we depart for a bit of inland camping at Krka National Forest.

From our base in Rovinj, we took the public bus to Pula. It was a 45-minute drive on back roads. This is the town that is famous for its arena or coliseum. Here, we found a somewhat preserved and mostly intact stone arena in the old city closest to the harbor. The crowds that were in Rome are thankfully not here.

Once inside, there was a stage permanently set up as there are now mock gladiator shows, and the arena is used for live concerts and operas. We will miss a performance by Andre Bocelli at the end of August, and the opera Aida was staged in early August.
While it was a hot day,  we walked the small arena looking at the ancient stones with a small crowd of foreigners.


Under the arena, they created a museum of all the items that had been unearthed nearby, many different amphoras that were used for storing olive oil, wines, or fish sauce.
Was cool here, so we lingered a bit longer here.
When they finished there, we walked further into the old city as there were a couple of older sites we wanted to visit.

Walking in the hot sun is difficult, and I was getting g hungry. We mistakenly stopped at the first restaurant. While I was hungry, we decided to order.  A hamburger of meat and veal with French fries and a salad. What arrived was a Greek salad with an abundance of cucumbers, and a few tomatoes enhanced with a couple of pieces of feta and olives intermixed. The meat was passable, and the salad needed a lot of oil. We asked for iced tea! Not available, we asked for lemonade.  We indeed got this in two huge pitcher glasses with straws.
We ate somewhat filled and asked for the check and said we would pay by visa. Many places in Croatia don’t accept cards, only cash. No problem. The waitress brought the check. OMG the burger was 18€ with French fries.  The salad was 14€, but here’s the surprise the lemonades were 7€ each, and we had to pay 4€ for the ketchup.


We paid almost that much for a fantastic flavorful lunch the day before in Rovinj. So I called this place a tourist trap and wrote that in a review.

After paying the bill, we walked further into the old town and found many other restaurants whose menus looked way more interesting and might have been better quality food too.The joys of finding a restaurant when hungry were disappointing, and not reading the reviews compounded the mistake, too.

But as we continue to walk around this old city, we compare Pula to Rovinj.
The Pula Old Quarter is much smaller and not as picturesque as Rovinj.

As the time is getting late and we want to return, we walk towards the bus and my stomach decides it’s not happy.


But no restaurant or bar nearby, luckily I see a run-down bar in the distance. We walk quickly there. The woman at the door says you must spend money to use the bathroom. I said, “Yes, I would.”
Wow… of course, it was probably the dirtiest bathroom in the city. But thank God there was toilet paper as the tourist trap restaurant wreaked its revenge. But after many minutes, I felt relief.  And oh, so happy to have a toilet and the toilet paper.
Instead of eating or drinking there, I just gave her 2 €.

Another day, we arranged a private tour guide with a car to Montevon y Grisyeda, two hilltop towns considered to be the gems of Istria.
Motovun is the heart of the truffle country. Our guide’s name was Vladana she grew up in the area but left for many years to live in other countries in Europe. She speaks Spanish, Italian, German, Croat, and English. She is happy to speak to us in Spanish as she doesn’t get to practice much.

It’s a small winding road we use after traveling the autobahn. About 50 minutes north of Rovinj, we approached the town that was abandoned after WWII and remained so until the 1960s. Today’s appearance of Groznjan is due to the artist and sculptor Aleksandar Rukavina, who, together with other artists, worked to ensure the preservation and restoration of the buildings.


Now, the town is inhabited by 165 residents who are predominantly artists as there are 20 art galleries and numerous restaurants too.


As we walked through the streets of this very picturesque town, it was delightful not only for the eyes, but we were delighted to be listening to music students practice either the piano or the violin. There is also a music camp here. Was a wonderful experience, and we had one of the best views of the surrounding area at the cafe with our coffee.

Next, we visited Motovun, another hilltop old town where we were lucky enough to get a ride to the top with the local hotel owner. Only local cars have the means to drive to the top, leaving many visitors to hike up the hilly cobblestone streets.


Once there, another magnificent vista awaits you, but this town is different as it has a very well-preserved wall that must be visited.


After all this viewing, we had lunch in a famous restaurant that is known for its pasta with truffles.
The food was a tasty experience along with a glass of local chilled white wine.


Ahh, Istrian península! I think this is my favorite area of Croatia.

We ended up staying in Rovinj for 11 days and are so glad we did.

In all the time of traveling in the campervan, life was very simple. Put on a bathing suit, have breakfast, wash up. Go to the Adriatic for a float in the afternoon.
Rinse repeat for 26 days.Refreshed.Relaxed.

We leave for Krakow Poland on Saturday. There, we will meet the local tangeros and dance at two tango festivals.

It will be wonderful to be back in a city, sleep in a normal bed, walk into the bathroom and use a normal toilet, go into the kitchen, and make coffee on a regular cooktop.

We are so grateful for the way we got to experience Croatia.

Now back to traveling and dancing tango.

Abrazo

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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