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An adventure story in Tigre!!!

Have you ever just wanted to escape the city for just a weekend? Exchanging all the city concrete for green and fresh air and water of the countryside.

A couple of years ago, I discovered Bandoneon a Bordon, Ariel Hernández a well-known Bandoneon player, as he offers a unique experience in his home,  dinner and a bandoneon concert in his island home on the Tigre Delta.

Think about the idea of a river delta with maybe 3 or 4 feet of water in the smaller tributaries that gets a bit deeper as these streams run into the Rio Paraná. The water is brackish in color, as is a mixture of fresh and salt waters.

Think classic old small, well maintained wooden boat slicing thru the water at increasingly faster speeds as the water gets either shallower or deeper depending on the tributary that you are on. And the weather is a bit cooler or so it seems as if you are relaxed and on a boat ride.

 

I discovered Ariel Hernández and Bandoneon a Bordi on Instagram when I was looking for a boaying experience for us to share with my visiting best friend from Istanbul Turkey.

I contacted him and made the money transfers fairly easily.  We booked. We reserved. The date was only a couple of weeks away.

Ariel reserved us a fast water taxi to take us to his place, taking us up the river approximately for 30 minutes until we arrived at his home on the rio.

As we went upriver the river brought about some changes to us all. We all relaxed and started to breathe the air. We all started to relax, and smiles were on all our faces.

Upon reaching his home, we were greeted by the dogs and our human host. We were offered an area to change into our  bathing suits and go for a swim. Or just sit on the pier and drink water or wine.

Ariel on the Bandoneon

We all let out a collective sigh, as no one realized how tightly wound up we had become living in the city. Not breathing, either.

As a group of strangers gathered together for a festive occasion, some people were tuned tighter while others immediately relaxed and sought out the water and others the glass of wine or water.

All together, it was a magical day filled with lovely adventures of swimming, eating, and listening to a Bandoneon concert. That was amazing. It was a retreat for all the senses.

We ended up repeating this trip a year later with another group of friends.

In 2024, we would like to visit again, but this time, this experience has been expanded to include an overnight stay and breakfast for two as Ariel has added guest accommodation.

Somehow, going up to Tigre about an hour by train just helps ameliorate the experience of being a city dweller.

Freshly prepared food

For me, overnighting on the river allows us to join together, to breathe and to take a moment from our busy lives to seek solace with each other, to be grateful for these small moments of quietude Eating good home cooked gourmet meals, swimming or soaking, boating or sitting.  Just being!

Listening to the boats running the river, the birds chirping, and the smell of fresh local food cooking away.

On the Rio

A slice of heaven here on earth brought to you by our friends at Bandoneon a Bordon Ariel Hernández, and his family.

For more information:

Bandoneon A bordo (Tigre), Ariel Hernandez Y Flavia

info@bandoneonabordo.com

+54 911 65891968

Www.bandoneonabordo.com

Los Alamos , Tigre, Buenos Aires 1648

Julia Doynel Y Sueño Porteño

By Julia Doynel

This story is published to honor and celebrate a major birthday of my friend Julia
Julia 2023
foto by Hugo Gimigliano

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I met Julia Doynel at Sueno Portenyo for the first time in 2018, my first trip to Buenos Aires. In subsequent trips in 2019, I danced at Sueno Portenyo, which in those days was located on the 2nd floor at a space on Humberto Primo. It was a very large, beautiful space accommodating up to 400 dancers.

Returning again in January 2020, but this time, for 3 months, I danced there on Sunday night and Wednesday night. I got to know the staff, the waitresses, and most of all Julia herself. I found her to be a most interesting and intelligent woman with a background in theater, as a director and as well a woman who with 4 children and a few grandchildren.

When the force of the horrible quarantine arrived organizers decided to close down all the milongas. Julia supported this decison, as no one could imagen the upcoming events. The country closed its doors to the world on March 20th, 2020.

Me and Julia 2020

In my conversation with Julia I find she has great wit and a big heart. During the pandemia she fund raised and continued to pay small salaries to all the people who had been loyal and worked with her.

About once a month I would take a taxi that she organized for me to her house. I would stay for about an hour, we would talk about the past and about the future of us of tango and of our hopes for the renewed world once the vaccines showed up. She even came with me when I was going to recieve mine.

This elegant woman who I call my friend is amazing. She has her man, Hugo, who is also a very intelligent and kind man with a beautiful embrazo.

Julia y Hugo
a night out for diner

We have gone out to dinners and milongas together. They have taken me to some of the oldest and most traditional milingas still running in Buenos Aires.

I feel so fantástico to call her mi amiga, mi querida.

So now we get to the story that Julia wrote about her relationship to tango. Enjoy!!!

 

White Night
Sueno Portenyo 2024

My dad danced tango, and when I was 4 or 6 years old, he put me on his feet and taught me how to dance, a ritual that we practiced quite frequently for a few years until, around the age of 9, The Beatles arrived and I abandoned tango, although in my house it was heard every day.

Many years later, my eldest daughter Veronica, who did dance tango, went to live in Spain with a scholarship in art, and since I missed her a lot, she insisted that I learn to dance tango and So out of casualness I started to learn and I never left it again, tango… a one-way path.

As so many people say when they arrived to tango for the first time you start to know another way of love and passion.

Julia at Sueno Portenyo on Humberto Primo 2018

The Buenos Aires [Sueño Porteño] dream was born from the need to make the milonga a place more human place, less alone, 16 years ago in the milongas the men sat on one side, the women in front, which prevented them from interacting when they were not dancing.

Tango is also a dance, of a culture, it is a social fact, many couples have been formed thanks to tango. Tango when one dances with a good dancer, with a good connection, is the only place where one stops thinking. to just feel, that’s what makes it unique.

Bailó

Buenos Aires, the heart of tango, welcomes you to this unique culture of embracements and friendship, welcome to the beauty of our landscapes and cities, to a great food!

Julia enjoying a moment with a friend, Jeremiah

Some of the milongas (the places where we dance) as Sueño porteño gives you a very nice welcome, and you can find warm people that with tango invites you to dream on a wooden floor.

¡TANGO!

After the pandemic, the milongas changed, some milongueros died, others stopped dancing and the political-economic situation of the country substantially reduced the number of times per week they dance today, the question is choosing…friendly milongas, where one feels welcome and where the audience, especially the male one, is flexible to people who are not used to it, especially foreigners.

Night out at Marabu 2022

We are in the beginning the high season for tango, most of the milongas, not all, are flooded with hopeful foreigners in hugging with the Argentinian locals, let’s welcome them in every way possible, they travel more than 12,000 km to do it. 

Grazi,

Julia Doynel, organizer of Sueño Porteño held on Sundays night from 7.30 to 2.00 am at Maza 457.

And as Julia says Gracias, Gracias, Gracias

 

And a little movie from polka dot night at Sueno Portenyo a few weeks ago.

Was marvelous.

Thank you for reading. Enjoy your next abrazo.

Edited, fotos, & intro by Ruth Offen except where noted

Back in BsAs again, 2024

Congresso at night

We arrived in BsAs in the middle of December. What a whirlwind time we have had.

First things first, after many months of traveling, my body decided it wanted a break. So I spent almost a week allowing my body the pleasure of arriving here by not moving quickly or planning to do too much, other than move into my new apartment. Unpacking suircases and figuring out where stuff will live for the next 5 months. It is the arrival tradition.
And a pleasure for me.

I love living in Recoleta. This part of town will always be my favorite as I have lived in this neighborhood for 4 years.

I know where to shop for almost anything from an AAA battery to great wines. Fabulous linen clothing from Italy to tango clothes.
Gluten-free bread to fantastic parrilla.

I know my city well, better than my partner Maximo qho lives outside the city of Buenos Aires, in Lomas de Zamora. Whenever we return to Argentina, he will usually have an unfinished project there. Therefore we are together for the weekend and apart during the week.

We go dancing on Friday nights and Sunday nights together. Friday is at El Beso at the Abrazo Club, run by the fabulous Zoraida y Diego. This milonga is in its 27th year. It’s a usually packed floor with many locals and many foreigners. You can listen to conversations in Brasileños, Italiano, Francés and Español. Reservations are a must or risk be disappointed.

Seated perspective

On Sundays, it’s dancing at Sueno Portenyo, running for 16th year by another of my favorite organizers, Julia Doynel. This milonga has a new home in the Almagro section of town at Maza 457. Again reservations are strongly advised.

Both milongas are friendly and with great music. Both these milongas, for me, embody the spirit of Tango in BsAs, as the organizers work hard to make sure everyone is danced and is dancing to good music.

Some Saturday nights, we go to Abasto Hotel on Corrientes. This milonga has a large wooden floor and a mostly older friendly crowd. Or some Saturdays we will to at El Milongon at Club Marapu. The floor here is much smaller and generally more crowded and on Saturday turns into a couples crowd. There are taxi dancers there provided by the club as there are in many of the milongas at El Beso and Sueno Portenyo.

Then there’s dancing during the week, at many different venues, but I think I love El Beso the best as the floor is glorious. It’s a sprung wooden floor, without many divets.

There’s Club Malcom on Thursday nights and Tangotica on Tuesday nights, too. Really friendly places and floors are old composite.

Julia Doynel [Sueño Porteño], Me, [Ruth Offen,] and Zoraida Fontclara [El Abrazo Club]

And the list goes on. It’s always good to check Hoy-Milonga.com.

I try to dance 3 or 4 times a week as I live here. I have the luxury of time. I will only go dancing for 2 or 3 hours. I am very happy with this as I get to socialize with some friends and dance with others. Pretty divine.

Living in this city is pretty crazy now. The peso has reached new excessive heights when changed from dollars. Today, I received 1050 pesos to dollars when using Western union.The rate of inflation is approximately 150%.

When you go to the market, you need to bring a brick of money… everything is now 3 times the price of that it was when we left in April.

The price of admission to a milonga is approximately 1750 to 2000 pesos.

A bottle of water is 900 pesos, and bottles of champagne are now a minimum of 12000 pesos.

But once you have danced in the clubs and at the milongas here in Buenos Aires, tango will forever be different for you.

To me, it’s a combination of the places, the people, the music, and the sense of belonging that is created when you live here.

The embrace

Understanding the nature of Buenos Aires is fundamental for understanding tango.
This is the place where you take a 3 hour coffee.
This is the place where you eat your dinner at 9 pm.
This is the place where you will remember that last amazing embrace for a long time.

This feeling of tango does get etched onto your soul when you live here for more than a week.

When a tanda begins, I like to close my eyes and dance with my soul and not just my feet.

That’s Tango.

After dancing

Traveling Tango

Creator of Tango Experiences

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